PARIS — The last thing the food universe seems to need these days is another restaurant guide.

巴黎——如今，美食界最不缺的就是餐厅指南。

But the glut¹ of guides hasn’t stopped France’s Foreign Ministry² from compiling La Liste, an ambitious ranking of what it claims are the 1,000 best “tables of exception” in the world.

但是，餐厅指南的泛滥并没有阻挡法国外交部(France’s Foreign Ministry)编制自己的榜单(La Liste)，它雄心勃勃地选出了世界上最棒的1000张“优质餐桌”(tables of exception)。

La Liste is based on an algorithm named Ciacco, the nickname of Dante’s gluttonous³ friend in “The Inferno,” and invented by Antoine Ribaut, a French-American computer systems architect. He drew on data from sources that included 200 food guides in 92 countries, such as Michelin, Gault & Millau and Zagat, and crowd-sourced sites like TripAdvisor and OpenTable.

这份榜单基于一种名为恰科(Ciacco)的算法。恰科是《地狱》(The Inferno)中但丁(Dante)贪吃的朋友的绰号。它是法裔美国计算机系统架构师安托万·里博(Antoine Ribaut)发明的，数据来源包括92个国家的200份美食指南，比如米其林(Michelin)、戈特&米约(Gault & Millau)和萨加特(Zagat)，以及TripAdvisor和OpenTable等网站的大众点评。

A committee of experts, among them Jean-Robert Pitte, a French food and wine historian and geographer⁴, and the German food journalist J爀最 Zipprick, defined the criteria⁵, including the quality of food, ambience, wine and spirits lists and service.

评价标准由法国美食美酒史学家和地理学家让-罗伯特·皮特(Jean-Robert Pitte)和德国美食记者约尔格·泽普里克(J爀最 Zipprick)等专家制订，包括食物品质、餐厅氛围、酒水单和服务。

The cost of the initiative, about 300,000 euros ($329,000), was paid not with government money but by a dozen corporate⁶ sponsors led by Nestlé and Mo琀 Hennessy.

该项目的成本约为30万欧元（约合32.9万美元），提供资金的不是政府，而是以雀巢(Nestlé)和轩尼诗(Mo琀 Hennessy)为首的十几家公司。

La Liste will be unveiled formally by Foreign Minister Laurent Fabius at a ceremony honoring many of the chefs at the Quai d’Orsay on Dec. 17.

这份榜单将于12月17日由法国外交部长洛朗·法比尤斯(Laurent Fabius)在凯多赛(Quai d’Orsay)的一个表彰大厨的仪式上正式公布。

There are restaurants from 48 countries, with 126 in Japan, 118 in France and 101 in the United States. China has 69 restaurants on the list, 43 of them on the mainland; Spain, Germany and Italy each have more than 50.

上榜的餐厅来自48个国家，其中日本126家，法国118家，美国101家。中国有69家餐厅上榜，其中43家在中国大陆。西班牙、德国和意大利分别有50多家餐厅上榜。

The best restaurant in the world, according to La Liste, is in Switzerland: the chef Beno琀 Violier’s Restaurant de l’H琀攀氀 de Ville, in a suburb⁷ of Lausanne. That is followed by Thomas Keller’s Per Se, in New York, in second place; Kenichiro Nishi’s Kyo Aji in Tokyo is third.

该榜单评出的世界上最好的餐厅在瑞士：大厨伯努瓦·维奥利耶(Beno琀 Violier)在洛桑郊区开设的Restaurant de l’H琀攀氀 de Ville餐厅。排在第二名的是托马斯·凯勒(Thomas Keller)在纽约市开设的Per Se餐厅；第三名是仁志一郎在东京开设的Kyo Aji餐厅。

The top-ranking French restaurant is Guy Savoy in fourth place. The remainder of the top 10 includes two more French restaurants (Maison Troisgros in the Loire and Auberge du Vieux Puits in the Languedoc region); the French chef Jo氀 Robuchon’s restaurant and Kyubey, both in Tokyo; Schauenstein in the Swiss Alps; and El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Spain.

第四名是Guy Savoy餐厅，它是排名最高的法国餐厅。前十名中剩下的餐厅包括两家法国餐厅（卢瓦尔省的Maison Troisgros餐厅和朗格多克区的Auberge du Vieux Puits餐厅）；法国大厨乔尔·罗比雄(Jo氀 Robuchon)在东京开设的餐厅以及东京的另一家餐厅Kyubey；瑞士阿尔卑斯山的Schauenstein餐厅；西班牙希罗纳的El Celler de Can Roca餐厅。

“I feel a heavy responsibility to be named number one,” said Mr. Violier in a telephone interview.

维奥利耶在接受电话采访时说：“被选为第一名，我深感责任重大。”

Mr. Violier, a 44-year-old Frenchman, said that the key to the success of his 50-seat restaurant is consistency⁸, not flash. Louis Villeneuve, his ma琀爀攀 d’h琀攀氀, for example, has been in his post for four decades.

44岁的维奥利耶是法国人。他说，自己的50座餐厅之所以成功靠的是稳定，而非卖弄。比如，餐厅领班路易斯·维尔纳夫(Louis Villeneuve)已经担任这个职位40年了。

“This ranking is a recognition of seriousness, of delivering the same fidelity⁹ and level of excellence¹⁰ from the beginning of January to the end of December,” Mr. Violier said. “It’s a great tribute to the team.”

维奥利耶说：“这个排名是对我们认真态度的认可：从1月初一直到12月底，我们始终尽职尽责，提供优质的餐食和服务。这是对整个团队的赞赏。”

La Liste can be seen as France’s unofficial response to the London-based World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, which has not been kind to restaurants in France in recent years. On this year’s list, no French restaurant made it into the top 10, and only four made it onto the list at all. (In the interest of fairness, data from the 50 Best list was included in the La Liste algorithm.)

这份榜单可以视作法国对伦敦的世界50佳餐厅榜单(World’s 50 Best Restaurants)的非正式回应。近些年，伦敦的那份榜单对法国餐厅不太友好。在今年的榜单上，没有一家法国餐厅挤进前十名，总共只有四家餐厅上榜（为了公平起见，法国的这份榜单把50佳餐厅榜单的数据也包含在自己的算法里）。

Earlier this year, chefs and other industry professionals became more vocal¹¹ in their criticism of the 50 Best list; in turn, the organization that produces the list has defended its voting system and methodology.

今年年初，很多大厨和餐饮业的其他专家更激烈地批评50佳餐厅榜单。对此，50佳餐厅榜单的发布机构为自己的投票系统和评价方法做出了辩护。

Philippe Faure, the French foreign ministry’s “gastro diplomat¹²” in charge of the La Liste initiative, has openly criticized the 50 Best list as biased¹³, corrupt¹⁴ and opaque¹⁵, and has vowed¹⁶ to fight back.

负责法国榜单项目的法国外交部“美食外交官”菲利普·福雷(Philippe Faure)曾公开批评50佳榜单存在偏见和腐败，不够透明，并撂狠话要做出反击。

With La Liste, he feels vindicated¹⁷. “Our aim is to be serious and honest,” said Mr. Faure at a private lunch on Thursday. “There will be a lot of the best French chefs who will be very unhappy with their rankings. But no one can accuse us of favoring our own. In a short time, La Liste will become the global reference.”

他觉得自己的这个榜单很清白。周四（12月10日），福雷在私人午餐会上说：“我们的目标是认真诚实。很多很棒的法国大厨可能会对自己的排名感到很不满。但是谁也不能指责我们偏向自己人。要不了多久，全世界都会参考这份榜单。”