Some seafood¹ restaurants don't serve fresh fish. They take a product that's already been frozen and processed, and then they serve it to you and charge you an exorbitant² amount. You deserve to see food that's fresh and delicious! But you can avoid these places. We spoke³ to Jonathan Gill (!!), executive chef at Portland, Oregon's RingSide Fish House, to find out what the red flags are in a seafood restaurant.

有些海鲜店不提供新鲜的鱼。他们的往往都是那冷冻处理过的鱼作为食品原料，将做好的鱼提供给顾客，然后收取价格不菲的餐费。作为顾客，你有权知道自己购买的原料鱼应该是新鲜美味的。但是你不会被允许进入（他们加工食品）的场所。让我们请到Joantha Gill，俄勒冈的Ringside Fish House 的主厨，该餐厅位于波特兰来帮助我们，如果在海鲜店发现下列情形之一，那么就需要引起警觉。

Editor's Note: These are rules for a seafood restaurant, not one that serves sushi. Sushi is required to be flash-frozen. Gill is referring to fresh fish being cooked in a seafood restaurant.

编者按：这些建议只适用于海鲜店，不包括寿司店。寿司所使用的海鲜都是速冻的。Gill所给出的参考，适用于活鱼现做的海鲜店。

1. All the fish is served fried

所有的鱼都是炸的

"If I went to a seafood restaurant and all the fish was fried, then you know it probably came in frozen, and it might even come in like that. Or if they just serve grilled⁴ salmon⁵ or mahi-mahi, and everything else is breaded and fried, then they're not serving up fresh fish."

“如果你去一家海鲜店用餐，发现他们所提供鱼都是炸的，那你可能就要考虑这些都是从冰柜里面出来的，甚至买来就是冰的（死的）鱼。或者这家店只提供烤三文鱼或者海豚鱼，其余的要不是煎的要不就是炸的，那就可以判断他们店里没有活鱼。”

2. The restaurant admits it doesn't get in fresh fish every day

餐馆承认不会每天进活鱼

"A good, busy restaurant is going to have fish come in every day, and it's not going to be frozen. There's no need for it, and most restaurants that specialize in seafood should be flexible enough to serve alternatives if a certain fish becomes unavailable. You're going to want to eat fish fresh, not frozen. If it's frozen, it's either out of season, shipped in from far away, or it's a processing-plant product."

“一家生意兴隆、口碑良好的海鲜店每天都会进鱼，而且不需要冷冻，因为不需要。大多数餐馆，特别是海鲜店，应对不同顾客的要求，如果某一种鱼没有办法吃到鲜活的，那采取灵活的手段（存放在冰箱）。人们都想吃活鱼而不是冷冻过的鱼。如果鱼是冷冻过的，除非是过了吃某种鱼的季节，要不来自很远地方，不然就是处理过的冷冻鱼。”

3. The menu lists the cost of the fish as "Market Price"

菜单上标出“市场价格”

"You'll usually see 'Market Price' on menus in chain restaurants, or places that do a lot of touristy business. The seafood market doesn't go up and down in wild swings. They should know what the price is, and they should be able to put it on the menu. Usually restaurants put 'Market Price' on the menu because they want to give the illusion the fish is fresh. As if they're picking it up at the market every day, which is probably not the case. They're not going up to a boat in the docks, handing over cash, and asking the fisherman, 'What's it cost today?'"Of course, the exception is if you see 'Market Price' on one of those little shacks⁶ on the pier⁷!"

“你通常都会在连锁餐馆的菜单上标有市场价格，或者是旅游点的餐馆里。但是海鲜的市场价格不会忽高忽低得离谱。餐馆经营者们应该知道价格，也应该标在菜单上。但是通常参观在菜单上标的市场价格，往往是为了给顾客造成“我们餐馆提供的鱼是新鲜的”假象。除非他们每天都去市场上收集价格，不然他们的动机就不纯。因为他们自然不可能跑到码头上，给渔民们钱，然后问：“今天鱼的成本是多少？”“当然有一种例外的情况，就是你在码头上的小屋中看到的‘市场价格’。”

4. If the fish on the menu isn't caught sustainably

菜单上面的鱼不是符合“可持续性海鲜项目”

"Seafood Watch is a great resource, and a great app. Users can recommend restaurants that have a sustainable seafood program. And restaurants can petition to get on the app by sending them menus. Granted, it's not always the most definitive⁸ list. I've worked at restaurants that have been on and not on the list, and both places sourced as sustainably as possible."

“Seafood Watch”上面有着丰富的资源，也是一款好用的应用程序。食客们可以推荐参加“可持续性海鲜项目”的餐馆。餐馆也可以通过发送自己的菜单来加入这个程序。在这个程序上面的餐厅名单不是固定不变的。我曾经工作过的餐厅，在推荐餐厅的名单上，时有时无，而这些餐厅都能尽可能的保证自己所进的食材符合可持续性的规定。

5. The menu doesn't say if the fish is wild

菜单上没有说这个鱼是不是野生的

"If the menu says it's salmon, but doesn't tell you if it's wild or farmed, that's a red flag. Nobody wants to put farmed seafood on the menu, and they certainly won't highlight it. If it's wild, they're going to tell you."

如果菜单上只说这个是三文鱼，但是并没有告知是野生的还是养殖的，那就需要引起重视。没有餐厅把“养殖的”标在海鲜菜单上，不标明的原因就是他就是卖（养殖的海鲜）而不想让食客注意。如果餐厅卖的是野生的鱼，那他们就会（大大方方）地告诉你。

6. The fish is served without skin

上的鱼没有鱼皮

"I like to see restaurants serve fish skin-on -- you can look at it and tell what it is (and what it isn't!) when you're eating it. When you're getting a pan-roasted piece of fish, you want to see the skin on. There are some exceptions with fish where you don't eat the skin, like certain flatfish. But if someone tries to sell you striped bass⁹ or black bass and it comes out and has no skin, that's a red flag."Any restaurant bringing in beautiful, fresh, whole fish (or even a filleted fish the restaurant's fishmonger takes care of) would want the skin on. Otherwise it's coming in processed. As chefs, we'd rather get in whole fish to have better control over its shelf life. If it comes in filleted, well, when was it filleted? How was it treated? You can check whole fish before you accept the delivery of it, and its shelf life will be a lot longer."

“我觉得餐馆的鱼要有鱼皮，看着才安心。这样在你吃鱼的时候，你可以通过鱼皮来判断是哪种鱼（或者不是哪种鱼）。除非有的鱼你不想吃鱼皮，比如某种比目鱼。如果有餐厅在上条纹鲈鱼或者是黑鲈鱼的时候，没有鱼皮，那就是可能是一个陷阱信号。任何餐馆都会想买入外观周正、活力新鲜、没有残缺、鱼皮尚在的鱼。（或者是鱼贩子处理得当的鱼片）。不然就是加工过的鱼。作为一个主厨，我们更喜欢整条鱼，因为可以保鲜的时间可以更长。如果是鱼片，我们就要知道，它们是什么时候切片？做了什么处理？在你接受整条鱼之前要确保你把鱼全面地检查一遍，这样你就能让它的保质期很久些。”

7. The seafood restaurant only has tuna, salmon, cod¹⁰, or sea bass

海鲜餐厅里面只有金枪鱼，三文鱼，鳕鱼，和海鲈鱼

"You know that a seafood restaurant knows what they're doing if they have fresh-shucked oysters¹¹. Anything that comes in live and has to be dealt with, processed, and served up in a short time frame means you're dealing¹² with a higher-caliber restaurant. If you see steamed clams¹³, mussels, or shellfish dishes, it tells me the restaurant's doing volume and they're treating their seafood great. If you see sea urchin¹⁴, or other seafood you might not be totally familiar with that strays from the four major fish (tuna, salmon, cod, or sea bass) -- you know it's a good spot. Shrimp¹⁵ will also be frozen nine times out of 10."

“如果一家餐厅里面有新鲜剥壳的牡蛎，那你就知道这个餐馆经营的是什么。任何食材从进口到处理、烹饪加工，到上菜整个一系列过程很快，那就说明这是一家高水准的餐厅，如果一家餐厅提供蒸的蛤、贻贝或贝类，而且数量很多那么说明这家餐厅对于海鲜的处理非常得当。如果在一家餐厅，你看见海胆，或者是其他除（金枪鱼，三文鱼，鳕鱼，和海鲈鱼）的不是非常熟悉的海鲜，那就是一家好的海鲜店。因为虾十有八九都是冷冻的。”

8. The server can't tell you where the fish is from

服务员说不出鱼是哪里产的

"Talk to your server and ask them where the fish is from. The better places will be able to tell you. If the waitstaff doesn't know off-hand, it's not a black mark against them, but they should be able to get you the answer pretty quick, and tell you which state it landed in. If they say, 'It's from the Pacific' -- well, yeah, duh. I'm sure it is. If they can't tell you where it's from, they probably don't get in whole, fresh fish. It's probably portion-cut and frozen."

“和服务员沟通，问他鱼是从哪里来的。如果是个好地方，那么肯定会告诉你，如果服务员当即就说不知道的话，这并非有意刁难，但是他们应该那能很快回答你的问题。如果他们说：“来自太平洋”——嗯，是的，我肯定它是的。如果他们说不出来，那上的鱼可能就不是新鲜的整条鱼，可能是冰冻过的一块鱼。”

9. Oysters are not served properly

上的牡蛎不新鲜

"If they're not serving oysters fresh-shucked on the half shell, and they won't do it for you that way, then it's probably not the best seafood restaurant to be in. If I went to a place that only had oysters Rockefeller, I'd put them in the same category as I would a chain restaurant. I'd be a little suspicious. It probably came in frozen -- you can buy oysters pasteurized and pre-shucked on the half shell. Instead, you'd want the restaurant serving oysters from a place closest to you geographically¹⁶. I'd look for something that's as local as it can be."

“如果他们上的牡蛎不是附着在一半的壳上（说明不新鲜），如果你提出来，但是他们也不同意这么做，那么这家海鲜店恐怕不是那么好。如果我去一家店只提供洛克菲勒牡蛎，那我就会把它标签成连锁餐厅，同时我也会感到有点怀疑，这些牡蛎可能是冷冻的，只有保质期内的牡蛎，是巴氏杀菌过，而且能够附着在一半的壳上。同时，你要的牡蛎最好就产自附近，而我也尽可能会选择当地产的，（这样就能保证牡蛎的新鲜）。”