They claim to hold the hands of time at bay by smoothing wrinkles and plumping up skin.

But expensive collagen creams are a waste of money, scientists said today. They say that the collagen molecules² in the enticing-sounding lotions³ and potions are so large that very few make it through the skin.

一般认为，骨胶原抗皱面霜能除皱唤肤，防止衰老。然而科学家却表示，骨胶原面霜虽然价格不菲，但并无实在功效，因为这些让人眼花缭乱的护肤品所含的骨胶原分子太大，不能透过皮肤而真正被吸收。

Richard Guy, professor of pharmaceutical⁴ sciences at the University of Bath, said: 'The idea created by many of these products is that collagen can get through the upper layers of skin and reinforce our own natural collagen, but this is preposterous⁵.

巴斯大学药物学教授理查德 盖伊称："许多产品都宣称骨胶原可以渗透浅层皮肤，补充人体骨胶原数量。纯属无稽之谈，因为骨胶原分子太大，皮肤结构会直接把大分子物质隔离在外。"

"The simple fact is that collagen is a huge molecule¹ and the skin is designed to keep such substances out."

As a result, they sit on the surface of the face until they are rubbed off or washed away. Jonathan Hadgraft, professor of biophysical chemistry at the University of London's school of pharmacy⁶, said: 'There is a popular belief that about 60 per cent of such creams is absorbed through the skin but the reality is that most of it just stays on the skin.

结果是骨胶原只会附着在脸部皮肤表面，一擦、一洗就掉。伦敦大学药学院生物物理化学教授乔纳森 哈德格拉斐特说："人们普遍认为60%的面霜都会被皮肤吸收，然而事实却是大部分都只附着在表皮。如果真能渗透皮肤、进入血液，就应归为药物了。"

"If it did penetrate⁷ the skin and get into the blood, it would have to be classed as a medicine."

Collagen is a protein that gives skin its strength and elasticity⁸. With the amount we make falling as we age, the protein has become a key ingredient of many creams that claim to rejuvenate⁹ the skin and smooth away wrinkles.

骨胶原是一种能增强皮肤弹性的蛋白质。随着年龄的增长，骨胶原含量会慢慢降低，于是许多面霜便鼓吹这一成分能抚平皱纹，恢复肌肤活力。

A spokesman for L'Oreal said the firm includes dehydrated collagen spheres in some of its products. 'When combined with other ingredients and applied¹⁰ to the skin's surface, the spheres have been independently proven to expand by up to nine times and create a plumped, hydrating and smoothing effect of the skin's surface.'

欧莱雅的一位发言称该公司部分产品含有脱水骨胶原球，"使用时，这些球体在其他成分作用下，会自动膨胀成原来的9倍大，从而抚平皱纹，补充水分。"

Chris Flower, of the Cosmetics¹¹, Toiletry and Perfumery Association said: "Manufacturers are very careful about the exact wording of the claims they make, but here is a risk of customers forming the wrong impression from some packaging and advertising¹²."

英国化妆品盥洗用品及香水协会(CTPA)的克里斯 弗劳尔说："制造商们措辞严谨，有时候可能在包装和广告上误导消费者。"