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英语世界文摘:A Guangzhou Guide to Yum Cha
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    A Guangzhou Guide to Yum Cha1

    广州饮茶指南

    By Will Wu

    文/威尔·吴

    Acclaimed1 as the food capital of China, Guangzhou has lavish2 delicacies3 to offer gourmands4. Arguably, its most famed repast5 is yum cha (literally ‘drink tea’), or, to be more specific, yum jou cha6 ( ‘drink morning tea’).

    广州被誉为中国的美食之都,各色佳肴丰富而奢侈,供美食爱好者品尝。它最有名的一餐可以说是饮茶(字面意思是“喝茶”,也称“早茶”)了,更确切地说是饮早茶(“喝早茶”)。

    Dating back to the Qing Dynasty, traditional yum cha refers not only to drinking tea but also to the devouring5 of dim sum, an abbreviated6 form of the phrase dian dian xin yi (‘little greetings’). This expression was supposedly coined during the Eastern Jin Dynasty. A general of the period was so moved by his soldiers’ devotion and valor7 that he had numerous types of local pastries8 delivered to the frontlines so they could feast, as a symbol of his salutations and appreciation9.

    广州的饮茶可追溯至清代。传统的饮茶不仅指喝茶,还包括吃点心。点心是“点点心意”这一说法的简称,据说创造于东晋时期。当时有一位将军见战士们奋战沙场,英勇杀敌,甚为感动,遂命人烘制各类当地糕点送至前线,犒劳战士,表达对战士的敬意和谢意。

    In olden times, Cantonese people used to enjoy yum cha at a very early hour, normally 5am or 6am – it was originally an exclusively morning refreshment7, hence the name. These days, many local teahouses and restaurants serve it all day.

    过去,广东人喜欢一大早去喝茶,通常早上五六点就去。茶原本只在早上喝,因而得了早茶这个名字。不过现在当地很多茶馆和餐厅全天都供应茶点。

    Pu’er, oolong and chrysanthemum11 are the most common varieties of tea served during yum cha, while ha gau (shrimp dumplings), siu mai (open dumplings, usually pork), feng jau (chicken feet), cha siu bau (barbecue pork buns), nor mai gai (sticky rice with chicken wrapped and steamed in lotus leaf), cheung fun ( rice noodle roll), lor bak go (turnip cake) and dan ta (egg tart) are among the most popular items wheeled past on a dim sum cart.

    普洱茶、乌龙茶和菊花茶是早茶供应的最常见的茶叶品种,而虾饺、烧卖(通常为猪肉馅)、凤爪、叉烧包、糯米鸡、肠粉、萝卜糕和蛋挞则是茶点车上推送的最受欢迎的茶点了。

    A standard pack of eating utensils8 for yum cha includes a little bowl with a spoon, a small teacup placed on a plate and a pair of chopsticks. All except the chopsticks are typically ceramic9. Though sometimes misused14, the plate is actually meant solely15 for waste. Cantonese often use the first serving of tea to wash the eating utensils12, a ritual to sterilize16 the implements17.

    一套标准的茶点餐具包括:一只小碗里放一把勺、一个盘子上放一只小茶杯,还有一双筷子。除了筷子,其他餐具通常都是陶瓷做的。盘子有时会被用错,其实是用来装食物残渣的。广东人有个习惯,就是用第一泡茶水烫洗餐具,给餐具消毒。

    Several interesting customs have arisen around yum cha, each with a colorful story about its origin. When a teapot refill is needed, the lid is simply left ajar10, stemming from a folk tale set in ancient southern China. A rich man asked for a top up11, but when the waiter lifted the teapot lid, the rich man claimed that the server had released a rare thrush12 and demanded compensation for his loss. As a result, teahouses started to ask diners to lift their own teapot lids as a signal for more hot water.

    关于早茶已经形成了几种有趣的习俗,每个习俗的起源都是一个生动的故事。如果想给茶壶加水,只需将茶壶盖揭开一半。这个习俗源自中国古代南方的一则民间故事。有个富翁要求给茶壶加水,可当服务员打开壶盖时,富翁咬定他放走了一只稀有的画眉,要求赔偿损失。结果,茶馆开始要求茶客们自己揭开茶壶盖,以示想加热水。

    When tea is served, it is customary to tap the table with two fingers of the same hand, as a way to say thank you to the person pouring the brew18. This habit can be traced to Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty, at a time when he was traveling incognito13 to Guangzhou. When he and his bodyguards20 stopped for lunch at a local teahouse, the emperor poured tea for his companions. In order not to draw any attention, his followers21 tapped the table instead of kowtowing to express their gratitude22.

    茶斟好后,茶客通常会用一只手的两根手指轻扣桌面,感谢为自己斟茶之人。这一习俗可追溯至清代的乾隆皇帝。有一次乾隆皇帝微服出巡,行至广州,与侍卫们在当地一家茶馆停下吃午饭。席间,乾隆给侍卫们倒了茶。为了不引起别人注意,侍卫们轻扣桌面代替叩头,表示感谢。

    Now that you know a little about the history and etiquette23 of yum cha, it’s time to try some authentic24 examples. We have rounded up some of the mostloved traditional spots serving up this Cantonese tradition.

    现在大家已经知道一些关于早茶的历史和礼仪了,是时候去几家实体店品尝一下了。以下是我们收集的一些最受欢迎的广式早茶老字号。

    Taotao Ju

    陶陶居

    Built in the reign25 of Emperor Guangxu, Taotao Ju is a time-honored brand in Guangzhou. In 2005, it was declared a municipal cultural heritage spot. Located on Dishifu Lu in Liwan District, the teahouse has maintained its Lingnan architectural style, with a hexagonal14 pavilion at the top of the building. Every day between 6am to 8am it is packed with senior citizens. Feng jau and ha gau are a must-try here, brought around on the traditional dim sum carts that are becoming increasingly scarce.

    陶陶居建于光绪年间,是广州的一家老字号,2005年还被评为广州市文物保护单位。陶陶居位于荔湾区第十甫路,茶馆保持着岭南建筑风格,屋顶盖有一座六角亭。每天早上6点到8点,这里挤满了上了年纪的茶客。凤爪、虾饺是这里必点的点心,放在传统的点心车上送来,这种点心车已经越来越罕见了。

    Lianxiang Lou

    莲香楼

    Lianxiang Lou was first started as a bakery in 1889 and earned its name from the high-quality lotus paste it used to make moon cakes. Located in the same neighborhood as Taotao Ju, Lianxiang Lou can handle 600 diners at one time. Cakes, such as chewy pork biscuits and preserved egg puff26 pastry27, are the main attractions of this restaurant, while the cream custard bun is another appealing eat.

    莲香楼于1889年开业,原是一家糕酥馆,后因其用于制作月饼的莲蓉用料讲究,遂得其名。莲香楼跟陶陶居位于同一条路上,可同时容纳600多人就餐。其招牌糕点是鸡仔饼、皮蛋酥等,而流沙包则是另一道诱人的点心。

    Panxi Restaurant

    泮溪酒家

    Situated28 inside Liwanhu Park, Panxi Restaurant offers not only traditional Cantonese dim sum but also a scenic29 view. Built in 1947, it boasts several well-known delicacies3, such as rabbit-shaped ha gau, pear-shaped lotus paste puff pastry, thousand-layer pastry, deepfried dumplings, deep-fried soup dumplings and steamed water chestnut30 pudding.

    泮溪酒家坐落于荔湾湖公园内,这里不仅能品尝到传统的广式点心,还有美景可供欣赏。泮溪酒家始建于1947年,有几道美食颇具名气,如绿荫白兔饺、像生雪梨果、鹤鹑千层酥、蜂巢蛋黄角、生炸灌汤包和泮塘马蹄糕等。

    Guangzhou Restaurant

    广州酒家

    Currently, Guangzhou Hotel has a grand total of 11 branches. The location on Wenchang Nan Lu is the oldest, opened in 1935. Known as the ‘restaurant giant of Guangzhou,’ the brand is acclaimed for its crab31 meat soup dumplings and Shawan buffalo32 milk tarts33. Hand in hand with its fame come steeper prices than the other restaurants listed here.

    广州酒家现有总共11家分店。最早的一家位于文昌南路,于1935 年开业。广州酒家被誉为“食在广州第一家”,凭借其蟹肉灌汤饺和沙湾原奶挞两款点心而备受好评。早茶本就价格不菲,与本文推介的其他餐厅相比,广州酒家名声更响,相伴而来的价格也更高。

    Nanyuan

    南园酒家

    If you want to enjoy your tea and dim sum in a quieter spot, Nanyuan on Qianjin Lu is an ideal choice. The colorful windows, blue bricks and green tiles, pavilions, terraces and open halls all showcase Lingnan culture. Although the dim sum is average, the ambiance15 inside has made it a Guangzhou favorite.

    如果想在一个较为安静的地方喝茶、吃点心,前进路上的南园酒家是个理想的选择。玻璃彩窗、青砖绿瓦、亭台楼阁无不展示着岭南文化。尽管点心很普通,餐厅内的环境却让它赢得了广州人民的喜爱。

    Beiyuan

    北园酒家

    Beiyuan enjoys a history of over 70 years. Located on Xiaobei Lu, the whole restaurant was built like a private villa34 in the traditional Lingnan style. The artificial landscape inside gives the whole restaurant the appearance of a well-preserved garden. Beiyuan is another hot hangout for senior citizens with a taste for the classic. Make sure to order red rice noodle rolls and be prepared to raise your voice – the hall is normally abuzz16 with chatter35.

    北园酒家位于小北路,有着70多年的历史。这家餐厅建得像一幢岭南传统风格的私家别墅。里面的人工景观让整家餐厅看起来像一座保存完好的园林。北园酒家是喜好经典粤菜的老年人的另一个热门去处。来这里一定要点红米肠,还要做好提高嗓门的准备——因为大家都在聊天,大厅里通常闹哄哄的。

    注释

    1. yum cha 饮茶,早茶。

    2. lavish2 大量的。

    3. delicacy36 精美的食物;佳肴。

    4. gourmand4 喜欢吃喝的人;吃货。

    5. repast 餐;饭菜。

    6. yum jou cha 饮早茶。

    7. refreshment10 食物和饮料。

    8. utensil(家庭)用具,器皿。

    9. ceramic13 陶瓷。

    10. ajar(门等)半开着的,微开着的。

    11. top up(重新斟满杯子的)补充饮料。

    12. thrush 画眉。还有一说放走的是金丝雀。

    13. incognito19 伪装;隐姓埋名。

    14. hexagonal 六角形的;六边形的。

    15. ambiance 周围环境,气氛。

    16. abuzz 嘈杂的;闹哄哄的。

     12级    双语 


    点击收听单词发音收听单词发音  

    1 acclaimed [ə'kleimd] 90ebf966469bbbcc8cacff5bee4678fe   第7级
    adj.受人欢迎的
    参考例句:
    • They acclaimed him as the best writer of the year. 他们称赞他为当年的最佳作者。
    • Confuscius is acclaimed as a great thinker. 孔子被赞誉为伟大的思想家。
    2 lavish [ˈlævɪʃ] h1Uxz   第7级
    adj.无节制的;浪费的;vt.慷慨地给予,挥霍
    参考例句:
    • He despised people who were lavish with their praises. 他看不起那些阿谀奉承的人。
    • The sets and costumes are lavish. 布景和服装极尽奢华。
    3 delicacies ['delɪkəsɪz] 0a6e87ce402f44558508deee2deb0287   第9级
    n.棘手( delicacy的名词复数 );精致;精美的食物;周到
    参考例句:
    • Its flesh has exceptional delicacies. 它的肉异常鲜美。 来自《现代汉英综合大词典》
    • After these delicacies, the trappers were ready for their feast. 在享用了这些美食之后,狩猎者开始其大餐。 来自英汉非文学 - 民俗
    4 gourmand [ˈgʊəmənd] Vezzc   第10级
    n.嗜食者
    参考例句:
    • He was long famed as a gourmand and heavy smoker and drinker. 长期以来,他一直以嗜好美食和烟酒闻名。
    • The food here satisfies gourmands rather than gourmets. 这里的食物可以管饱却不讲究品质。
    5 devouring [diˈvauərɪŋ] c4424626bb8fc36704aee0e04e904dcf   第7级
    吞没( devour的现在分词 ); 耗尽; 津津有味地看; 狼吞虎咽地吃光
    参考例句:
    • The hungry boy was devouring his dinner. 那饥饿的孩子狼吞虎咽地吃饭。
    • He is devouring novel after novel. 他一味贪看小说。
    6 abbreviated [ə'bri:vɪeɪtɪd] 32a218f05db198fc10c9206836aaa17a   第9级
    adj. 简短的,省略的 动词abbreviate的过去式和过去分词
    参考例句:
    • He abbreviated so much that it was hard to understand his article. 他的文章缩写词使用太多,令人费解。
    • The United States of America is commonly abbreviated to U.S.A.. 美利坚合众国常被缩略为U.S.A.。
    7 valor ['vælə] Titwk   第11级
    n.勇气,英勇
    参考例句:
    • Fortitude is distinct from valor. 坚韧不拔有别于勇猛。
    • Frequently banality is the better parts of valor. 老生常谈往往比大胆打破常规更为人称道。
    8 pastries ['pəistriz] 8f85b501fe583004c86fdf42e8934228   第8级
    n.面粉制的糕点
    参考例句:
    • He gave a dry laugh, then sat down and started on the pastries. 杜新箨说着干笑一声,坐下去就吃点心。 来自子夜部分
    • Mike: So many! I like Xijiang raisins, beef jerky, and local pastries. 麦克:太多了。我最喜欢吃新疆葡萄干、牛肉干和风味点心。
    9 appreciation [əˌpri:ʃiˈeɪʃn] Pv9zs   第7级
    n.评价;欣赏;感谢;领会,理解;价格上涨
    参考例句:
    • I would like to express my appreciation and thanks to you all. 我想对你们所有人表达我的感激和谢意。
    • I'll be sending them a donation in appreciation of their help. 我将送给他们一笔捐款以感谢他们的帮助。
    10 refreshment [rɪˈfreʃmənt] RUIxP   第7级
    n.恢复,精神爽快,提神之事物;(复数)refreshments:点心,茶点
    参考例句:
    • He needs to stop fairly often for refreshment. 他须时不时地停下来喘口气。
    • A hot bath is a great refreshment after a day's work. 在一天工作之后洗个热水澡真是舒畅。
    11 chrysanthemum [krɪˈsænθəməm] Sbryd   第10级
    n.菊,菊花
    参考例句:
    • Each mourner wore a black armband and a white paper chrysanthemum. 每个吊唁的人都佩带着黑纱和一朵白纸菊花。
    • There are many species of chrysanthemum. 菊花品种很多。
    12 utensils [ju:'tensɪlz] 69f125dfb1fef9b418c96d1986e7b484   第8级
    器具,用具,器皿( utensil的名词复数 ); 器物
    参考例句:
    • Formerly most of our household utensils were made of brass. 以前我们家庭用的器皿多数是用黄铜做的。
    • Some utensils were in a state of decay when they were unearthed. 有些器皿在出土时已经残破。
    13 ceramic [səˈræmɪk] lUsyc   第8级
    n.制陶业,陶器,陶瓷工艺
    参考例句:
    • The order for ceramic tiles has been booked in. 瓷砖的订单已登记下来了。
    • Some ceramic works of art are shown in this exhibition. 这次展览会上展出了一些陶瓷艺术品。
    14 misused [mɪsˈju:zd] 8eaf65262a752e371adfb992201c1caf   第8级
    v.使用…不当( misuse的过去式和过去分词 );把…派作不正当的用途;虐待;滥用
    参考例句:
    • He misused his dog shamefully. 他可耻地虐待自己的狗。 来自《简明英汉词典》
    • He had grossly misused his power. 他严重滥用职权。 来自《简明英汉词典》
    15 solely [ˈsəʊlli] FwGwe   第8级
    adv.仅仅,唯一地
    参考例句:
    • Success should not be measured solely by educational achievement. 成功与否不应只用学业成绩来衡量。
    • The town depends almost solely on the tourist trade. 这座城市几乎完全靠旅游业维持。
    16 sterilize [ˈsterəlaɪz] LuwwE   第10级
    vt.使不结果实;使绝育;使无效;杀菌,消毒
    参考例句:
    • Antiseptic is used to sterilize the skin before giving an injection. 杀菌剂被用于在注射前给皮肤消毒。
    • He pricks the blister on his heel with a sterilize needle. 他用一根消过毒的针扎破他脚后跟上的水泡。
    17 implements ['ɪmplɪmənts] 37371cb8af481bf82a7ea3324d81affc   第7级
    n.工具( implement的名词复数 );家具;手段;[法律]履行(契约等)v.实现( implement的第三人称单数 );执行;贯彻;使生效
    参考例句:
    • Primitive man hunted wild animals with crude stone implements. 原始社会的人用粗糙的石器猎取野兽。 来自《现代汉英综合大词典》
    • They ordered quantities of farm implements. 他们订购了大量农具。 来自《现代汉英综合大词典》
    18 brew [bru:] kWezK   第8级
    vt. 酿造;酝酿 vi. 酿酒;被冲泡;即将发生 n. 啤酒;质地
    参考例句:
    • Let's brew up some more tea. 咱们沏些茶吧。
    • The policeman dispelled the crowd lest they should brew trouble. 警察驱散人群,因恐他们酿祸。
    19 incognito [ˌɪnkɒgˈni:təʊ] ucfzW   第12级
    adv.匿名地;n.隐姓埋名;adj.化装的,用假名的,隐匿姓名身份的
    参考例句:
    • He preferred to remain incognito. 他更喜欢继续隐姓埋名下去。
    • He didn't want to be recognized, so he travelled incognito. 他不想被人认出,所以出行时隐瞒身分。
    20 bodyguards [ˈbɔdi:ˌgɑ:dz] 3821fc3f6fca49a9cdaf6dca498d42dc   第9级
    n.保镖,卫士,警卫员( bodyguard的名词复数 )
    参考例句:
    • Brooks came to Jim's office accompanied—like always—by his two bodyguards. 和往常一样,在两名保镖的陪同下,布鲁克斯去吉姆的办公室。 来自《简明英汉词典》
    • Three of his bodyguards were injured in the attack. 在这次袭击事件中,他有3名保镖受了伤。 来自辞典例句
    21 followers ['fɔ:ləʊəz] 5c342ee9ce1bf07932a1f66af2be7652   第7级
    追随者( follower的名词复数 ); 用户; 契据的附面; 从动件
    参考例句:
    • the followers of Mahatma Gandhi 圣雄甘地的拥护者
    • The reformer soon gathered a band of followers round him. 改革者很快就获得一群追随者支持他。
    22 gratitude [ˈgrætɪtju:d] p6wyS   第7级
    adj.感激,感谢
    参考例句:
    • I have expressed the depth of my gratitude to him. 我向他表示了深切的谢意。
    • She could not help her tears of gratitude rolling down her face. 她感激的泪珠禁不住沿着面颊流了下来。
    23 etiquette [ˈetɪket] Xiyz0   第7级
    n.礼仪,礼节;规矩
    参考例句:
    • The rules of etiquette are not so strict nowadays. 如今的礼仪规则已不那么严格了。
    • According to etiquette, you should stand up to meet a guest. 按照礼节你应该站起来接待客人。
    24 authentic [ɔ:ˈθentɪk] ZuZzs   第7级
    adj.真的,真正的;可靠的,可信的,有根据的
    参考例句:
    • This is an authentic news report. We can depend on it. 这是篇可靠的新闻报道,我们相信它。
    • Autumn is also the authentic season of renewal. 秋天才是真正的除旧布新的季节。
    25 reign [reɪn] pBbzx   第7级
    n.统治时期,统治,支配,盛行;vi.占优势
    参考例句:
    • The reign of Queen Elizabeth lapped over into the seventeenth century. 伊丽莎白王朝延至17世纪。
    • The reign of Zhu Yuanzhang lasted about 31 years. 朱元璋统治了大约三十一年。
    26 puff [pʌf] y0cz8   第7级
    n.一口(气);一阵(风); 粉扑;泡芙;蓬松;vt.喷出,张开;使膨胀;夸张;使骄傲自满;vi.膨胀;张开;鼓吹;夸张
    参考例句:
    • He took a puff at his cigarette. 他吸了一口香烟。
    • They tried their best to puff the book they published. 他们尽力吹捧他们出版的书。
    27 pastry [ˈpeɪstri] Q3ozx   第8级
    n.油酥面团,酥皮糕点
    参考例句:
    • The cook pricked a few holes in the pastry. 厨师在馅饼上戳了几个洞。
    • The pastry crust was always underdone. 馅饼的壳皮常常烤得不透。
    28 situated [ˈsɪtʃueɪtɪd] JiYzBH   第8级
    adj.坐落在...的,处于某种境地的
    参考例句:
    • The village is situated at the margin of a forest. 村子位于森林的边缘。
    • She is awkwardly situated. 她的处境困难。
    29 scenic [ˈsi:nɪk] aDbyP   第8级
    adj.自然景色的,景色优美的
    参考例句:
    • The scenic beauty of the place entranced the visitors. 这里的美丽风光把游客们迷住了。
    • The scenic spot is on northwestern outskirts of Beijing. 这个风景区位于北京的西北远郊。
    30 chestnut [ˈtʃesnʌt] XnJy8   第9级
    n.栗树,栗子
    参考例句:
    • We have a chestnut tree in the bottom of our garden. 我们的花园尽头有一棵栗树。
    • In summer we had tea outdoors, under the chestnut tree. 夏天我们在室外栗树下喝茶。
    31 crab [kræb] xoozE   第7级
    n.螃蟹,偏航,脾气乖戾的人,酸苹果;vi.捕蟹,偏航,发牢骚;vt.使偏航,发脾气
    参考例句:
    • I can't remember when I last had crab. 我不记得上次吃蟹是什么时候了。
    • The skin on my face felt as hard as a crab's back. 我脸上的皮仿佛僵硬了,就象螃蟹的壳似的。
    32 buffalo [ˈbʌfələʊ] 1Sby4   第7级
    n.(北美)野牛;(亚洲)水牛
    参考例句:
    • Asian buffalo isn't as wild as that of America's. 亚洲水牛比美洲水牛温顺些。
    • The boots are made of buffalo hide. 这双靴子是由水牛皮制成的。
    33 tarts [tɑ:ts] 781c06ce7e1617876890c0d58870a38e   第10级
    n.果馅饼( tart的名词复数 );轻佻的女人;妓女;小妞
    参考例句:
    • I decided to make some tarts for tea. 我决定做些吃茶点时吃的果馅饼。 来自《简明英汉词典》
    • They ate raspberry tarts and ice cream. 大家吃着木莓馅饼和冰淇淋。 来自辞典例句
    34 villa [ˈvɪlə] xHayI   第8级
    n.别墅,城郊小屋
    参考例句:
    • We rented a villa in France for the summer holidays. 我们在法国租了一幢别墅消夏。
    • We are quartered in a beautiful villa. 我们住在一栋漂亮的别墅里。
    35 chatter [ˈtʃætə(r)] BUfyN   第7级
    vi./n.喋喋不休;短促尖叫;(牙齿)打战
    参考例句:
    • Her continuous chatter vexes me. 她的喋喋不休使我烦透了。
    • I've had enough of their continual chatter. 我已厌烦了他们喋喋不休的闲谈。
    36 delicacy [ˈdelɪkəsi] mxuxS   第9级
    n.精致,细微,微妙,精良;美味,佳肴
    参考例句:
    • We admired the delicacy of the craftsmanship. 我们佩服工艺师精巧的手艺。
    • He sensed the delicacy of the situation. 他感觉到了形势的微妙。

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