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Le Richer 巴黎的名厨咖啡屋
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  • Le Richer looks like dozens of other modernised Paris cafés, with 1960s-style chairs, exposed stone walls brightened with

    mirrors, and bay windows looking on to an unremarkable Right Bank street. The coffee provides the first clue that something

    is different: made with beans from the fashionable Left Bank roaster Coutume, it reveals an attention to detail

    increasingly common in bistros but still rare in the neighbourhood café. The same care goes into the inventive food served

    at lunch and dinner, which easily rivals that of much pricier restaurants in Paris.

    Le Richer与巴黎诸多现代风格的咖啡屋大同小异——配备着上世纪60年代风格的椅子、裸露的石墙因挂有镜子而显得蓬荜生辉,透过飘窗可

    眺望右岸地区(Right Bank)的寻常街道。它提供的咖啡就是展现自己与众不同的第一道风景线:其咖啡豆来自时尚左岸地区(Left Bank)的

    Coutume咖啡烘焙店,Le Richer对每个细节都精益求精,这在巴黎的餐厅越来越司空见惯,但在周边咖啡屋仍属凤毛麟角。同样的事无巨细

    态度还体现在独出心裁的午餐和晚餐,与巴黎价格不菲的高档餐厅相比,它们的水准毫不逊色。

    Combining the warmth of a local hangout with the high standards of a modern bistro, Le Richer belongs to a handful of

    hybrids2 that are transforming Parisian café culture. Instead of contenting themselves with bitter mass-produced coffee and

    a predictable menu of salads, croque-monsieurs and steak-frites, these gastro cafés are allowing ambitious chefs to express

    themselves in a casual setting.

    Le Richer把本地人流连忘返的温馨感与现代风格小餐馆的高水准合二为一,作为为数不多的混合经营咖啡馆,正在改变巴黎的咖啡文化。它

    们并不为大量提供苦咖啡以及一般的沙拉、法式火腿干酪热三明治(croque-monsieurs)以及薯条牛排(steak-frites)而沾沾自喜,相反,这

    些美食荟萃的咖啡屋允许有抱负的厨师在宽松的环境中肆意发挥。

    Le Richer was created by Charles Compagnon of the nearby bistro L’Office. His no-reservations annex3 might look more

    relaxed but Le Richer’s young chefs are turning out sophisticated dishes such as veal1 cheek with creamy polenta, daikon

    radish and grapes. Churros are a speciality for dessert, perhaps with walnut4 crème anglaise, prunes5 and figs6. The chatty

    waiters joke with customers at the bar, while the bartender shakes up cocktails7 such as the cucumber slide or the kiwi-

    kiwi. The organic and natural wines come from passionate8 small producers, as does the tea served in the afternoons.

    Le Richer由夏尔•孔帕尼翁(Charles Compagnon)在毗邻L’Office小餐馆的地方创办。它不接受预订的附加条件也许看起来很随意,但年轻

    厨师精心推出了用奶油玉米、白萝卜以及葡萄搭配的牛颊肉这等精美绝伦的大餐。巧罗丝(churros)则是本店的特色甜点,也许再配以英式核

    桃奶油酱、梅干以及无花果。健谈的服务员不时与顾客在酒吧间开着玩笑,而酒吧间服务员则在调制cucumber slide与kiwi-kiwi鸡尾酒。这

    些天然有机葡萄酒由小型酒庄精心酿制,它供应的下午茶同样如此。

    A precursor9 to places like Le Richer was Café Constant, the popular bistro annex of Michelin-starred chef Christian10

    Constant’s more formal restaurant Le Violon d’Ingres. Constant has since opened a second casual restaurant, Les Cocottes,

    and helped launch the seafood11 restaurant Les Fables12 de la Fontaine – both also on rue13 St-Domininque in the smart 7th. But

    Café Constant remains14 his favourite place to perch15 at the bar with an unlit cigar in his mouth and survey his mini-empire.

    Though it closes between lunch and dinner, it’s open all morning for breakfast, making it a friendly meeting spot in this

    neighbourhood of moneyed families and politicians.

    Le Richer这类咖啡屋的“始作俑者”是远近皆知的Café Constant,它是米其林星级厨师克里斯蒂安•康斯坦特(Christian Constant)名下较

    为正规的Le Violon d’Ingres餐厅的分设咖啡屋。康斯坦特随后又开设了一家更为休闲的Les Cocottes餐馆,并且帮助开设了Les Fables

    de la Fontaine海鲜酒楼——这两家餐厅都位于时尚第七区的圣多米尼克街(rue St-Domininque)。但Café Constant仍是康斯坦特最喜欢的

    咖啡屋,他喜欢坐在酒吧间,嘴里叼着雪茄,得意地扫视自己的“迷你帝国”。尽管它在午餐与晚餐之间关门歇业,但整个上午都都开门供

    应早餐,这使它成为附近富裕家庭与政客们青睐的聚餐之地。

    Instead of the complex food served at Le Richer, Café Constant’s kitchen focuses on revisiting such childhood classics as

    eggs mimosa, veal cordon16 bleu and roast chicken – and even a French grand-mère would have trouble rivalling its versions.

    If some more modern dishes make it on to the menu, such as grilled18 prawn19 tart20 with baby spinach21 salad and frothy lemongrass

    sauce, the desserts are the stuff of nostalgic fantasies: profiteroles, floating island, crème caramel, flaky apple tart.

    Often abused in ordinary cafés, these puddings reclaim22 their rightful place here.

    与提供复杂美食Le Richer不同的是,Café Constant专注于提供让食客重温鸡蛋含羞草、蓝带牛肉以及烤鸡这些儿时的美味佳肴——制作水

    准甚至连法国老奶奶也望尘莫及。如果说用凉拌嫩菠菜及起泡柠檬香草酱搭配的烤虾挞是菜单中不断推陈出新的现代菜,那么空心甜饼、覆

    有蛋白的蛋糕、焦糖蛋奶以及片状苹果馅饼就是回味无穷的经典怀旧甜点。在一般咖啡屋通常不受待见的这些甜点在这儿算是重新找到了自

    己的归宿。

    Another restaurant offshoot is Buvette, where the chef simmers free-range chicken in red Burgundy for classic coq au vin, a

    dish rarely seen in bistros nowadays. Behind this cosy23 café billing itself as a “gastrothèque” is Jody Williams, who

    opened a nearly identical restaurant in Greenwich Village in 2011 before realising that Paris could also benefit from a

    dose of old-fashioned French cooking.

    另一家高档餐厅下设的咖啡屋是Buvette,那儿的大厨用勃艮第红酒慢炖散养鸡,烹制出经典的酒闷仔鸡(coq au vin),这道菜如今在小餐馆

    里已经难觅踪影。这家自诩美食荟萃(gastrothèque)的温馨咖啡店店主是乔迪•威廉姆斯(Jody Williams),他2011年在格林尼治村

    (Greenwich Village)开设了几乎一模一样的餐厅,而后意识到传统法式烹饪也可大飨巴黎的美食饕餮。

    Croissants sit on the counter beside American cakes in the morning, while at lunch and in the late evening the croque-

    monsieur on country bread with pickles24 on the side puts most Paris cafés to shame. Heartier25 dishes such as l’os à moelle

    (bone marrow) and cassoulet take centre stage at dinner, though small plates – black pudding with apple on toast, or

    salads (perhaps raw Brussels sprouts26 tossed with Parmesan shavings) – are also available. As at Le Richer, the coffee,

    wine and cocktails are top-notch.

    每天早上,羊角面包与美式蛋糕一起摆在柜台上;而午餐以及晚餐时,放在乡村面包上的法式火腿干酪热三明治,旁边再配以腌菜,让巴黎

    多数咖啡屋无地自容。骨髓以及豆焖肉等热菜尽管用小盘子盛放,却是晚宴的压轴菜——此外还供应吐司面包上放着苹果黑布丁及沙拉(或

    许是洒着干酪屑的生球芽甘蓝)。在Le Richer咖啡屋,咖啡、葡萄酒以及鸡尾酒都是出类拔萃的水准。

    Where the down-to-earth yet charming café Le Cherche Midi once stood, Café Trama has created a winning formula with its

    old-meets-new decor of vintage tiles and Swedish furniture – and food that reflects the same spirit. Among the dishes

    listed on the blackboard menu are lentils with poached eggs and mackerel, and an unlikely but successful steak tartare

    flavoured with ginger27 and lemongrass.

    在原先实在却又可人的Le Cherche Midi咖啡屋原址上,Café Trama咖啡屋创建出成功模式——用仿古瓷砖与瑞典式家具打造出传统与现代合

    二为一的装修风格,而它的饮食也体现了同样风格。菜单就写于黑板上,其中包括了荷包蛋与鲭鱼搭配小扁豆,以及可欲不可求却又美味无

    比的生姜与柠檬香草做就的鞑靼牛扒。

    Most tempting28 of all are the cakes, including a chestnut29 fondant made from a secret Trama family recipe and an exquisite30

    lemon tart. The coffee is from Veronese roaster Gianni Frasi, and the same care goes into the list of organic and natural

    wines. Open from 11am to 10.30pm and with surprisingly reasonable prices, Café Trama has become one of the best places to

    linger in this chic17 neighbourhood.

    最让人垂涎欲滴的莫过于各种蛋糕,其中包括用特拉马家族(Trama famil)独门配方制作的板栗软糖与无比精致的柠檬塔。咖啡则来自意大利

    维罗纳烘焙厂家Gianni Frasi,而各种天然有机葡萄酒同样精挑细选。Café Trama咖啡屋的营业时间是从上午11点到晚上11:30,而且价格颇

    为公道(这很出乎意料),它已成为巴黎时尚第七区最为流连忘返的地方。

    Rosa Jackson is a cooking teacher and food writer based in Nice and Paris

    罗莎•杰克逊是长驻尼斯与巴黎的烹饪教师及美食作家

     12级    双语 


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    1 veal [vi:l] 5HQy0   第10级
    n.小牛肉
    参考例句:
    • She sauteed veal and peppers, preparing a mixed salad while the pan simmered. 她先做的一道菜是青椒煎小牛肉,趁着锅还在火上偎着的机会, 又做了一道拼盘。
    • Marinate the veal in white wine for two hours. 把小牛肉用白葡萄酒浸泡两小时。
    2 hybrids [ˈhaibridz] a5030918be299fefcf603b9326766b39   第8级
    n.杂交生成的生物体( hybrid的名词复数 );杂交植物(或动物);杂种;(不同事物的)混合物
    参考例句:
    • All these brightly coloured hybrids are so lovely in the garden. 花园里所有这些色彩鲜艳的杂交花真美丽。 来自辞典例句
    • The notion that interspecific hybrids are rare is ill-founded. 有一种看法认为种间杂种是罕见的,这种看法是无根据的。 来自辞典例句
    3 annex [əˈneks] HwzzC   第9级
    vt.兼并,吞并;n.附属建筑物
    参考例句:
    • It plans to annex an England company in order to enlarge the market. 它计划兼并一家英国公司以扩大市场。
    • The annex has been built on to the main building. 主楼配建有附属的建筑物。
    4 walnut [ˈwɔ:lnʌt] wpTyQ   第8级
    n.胡桃,胡桃木,胡桃色,茶色
    参考例句:
    • Walnut is a local specialty here. 核桃是此地的土特产。
    • The stool comes in several sizes in walnut or mahogany. 凳子有几种尺寸,材质分胡桃木和红木两种。
    5 prunes [pru:nz] 92c0a2d4c66444bc8ee239641ff76694   第10级
    n.西梅脯,西梅干( prune的名词复数 )v.修剪(树木等)( prune的第三人称单数 );精简某事物,除去某事物多余的部分
    参考例句:
    • Dried fruits such as prunes, pears, and peaches, are stewed. 梅干、梨脯、桃脯等干果,都是炖过的。 来自辞典例句
    • We had stewed prunes for breakfast. 我们早饭吃炖梅干。 来自辞典例句
    6 figs [fɪgz] 14c6a7d3f55a72d6eeba2b7b66c6d0ab   第10级
    figures 数字,图形,外形
    参考例句:
    • The effect of ring dyeing is shown in Figs 10 and 11. 环形染色的影响如图10和图11所示。
    • The results in Figs. 4 and 5 show the excellent agreement between simulation and experiment. 图4和图5的结果都表明模拟和实验是相当吻合的。
    7 cocktails ['kɒkteɪlz] a8cac8f94e713cc85d516a6e94112418   第7级
    n.鸡尾酒( cocktail的名词复数 );餐前开胃菜;混合物
    参考例句:
    • Come about 4 o'clock. We'll have cocktails and grill steaks. 请四点钟左右来,我们喝鸡尾酒,吃烤牛排。 来自辞典例句
    • Cocktails were a nasty American habit. 喝鸡尾酒是讨厌的美国习惯。 来自辞典例句
    8 passionate [ˈpæʃənət] rLDxd   第8级
    adj.热情的,热烈的,激昂的,易动情的,易怒的,性情暴躁的
    参考例句:
    • He is said to be the most passionate man. 据说他是最有激情的人。
    • He is very passionate about the project. 他对那个项目非常热心。
    9 precursor [pri:ˈkɜ:sə(r)] rPOx1   第9级
    n.先驱者;前辈;前任;预兆;先兆
    参考例句:
    • Error is often the precursor of what is correct. 错误常常是正确的先导。
    • He said that the deal should not be seen as a precursor to a merger. 他说该笔交易不应该被看作是合并的前兆。
    10 Christian [ˈkrɪstʃən] KVByl   第7级
    adj.基督教徒的;n.基督教徒
    参考例句:
    • They always addressed each other by their Christian name. 他们总是以教名互相称呼。
    • His mother is a sincere Christian. 他母亲是个虔诚的基督教徒。
    11 seafood [ˈsi:fu:d] 7j6zUl   第8级
    n.海产食品,海味,海鲜
    参考例句:
    • There's an excellent seafood restaurant near here. 离这儿不远有家非常不错的海鲜馆。
    • Shrimps are a popular type of seafood. 小虾是比较普遍的一种海味。
    12 fables [ˈfeiblz] c7e1f2951baeedb04670ded67f15ca7b   第7级
    n.寓言( fable的名词复数 );神话,传说
    参考例句:
    • Some of Aesop's Fables are satires. 《伊索寓言》中有一些是讽刺作品。 来自《现代英汉综合大词典》
    • Little Mexican boys also breathe the American fables. 墨西哥族的小孩子对美国神话也都耳濡目染。 来自辞典例句
    13 rue [ru:] 8DGy6   第10级
    n.懊悔,芸香,后悔;v.后悔,悲伤,懊悔
    参考例句:
    • You'll rue having failed in the examination. 你会悔恨考试失败。
    • You're going to rue this the longest day that you live. 你要终身悔恨不尽呢。
    14 remains [rɪˈmeɪnz] 1kMzTy   第7级
    n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹
    参考例句:
    • He ate the remains of food hungrily. 他狼吞虎咽地吃剩余的食物。
    • The remains of the meal were fed to the dog. 残羹剩饭喂狗了。
    15 perch [pɜ:tʃ] 5u1yp   第7级
    n.栖木,高位,杆;vt.&vi.栖息,就位,位于
    参考例句:
    • The bird took its perch. 鸟停歇在栖木上。
    • Little birds perch themselves on the branches. 小鸟儿栖歇在树枝上。
    16 cordon [ˈkɔ:dn] 1otzp   第10级
    n.警戒线,哨兵线
    参考例句:
    • Police officers threw a cordon around his car to protect him. 警察在他汽车周围设置了防卫圈以保护他。
    • There is a tight security cordon around the area. 这一地区周围设有严密的安全警戒圈。
    17 chic [ʃi:k] iX5zb   第10级
    n./adj.别致(的),时髦(的),讲究的
    参考例句:
    • She bought a chic little hat. 她买了一顶别致的小帽子。
    • The chic restaurant is patronized by many celebrities. 这家时髦的饭店常有名人光顾。
    18 grilled [grɪld] grilled   第8级
    adj. 烤的, 炙过的, 有格子的 动词grill的过去式和过去分词形式
    参考例句:
    • He was grilled for two hours before the police let him go. 他被严厉盘查了两个小时后,警察才放他走。
    • He was grilled until he confessed. 他被严加拷问,直到他承认为止。
    19 prawn [prɔ:n] WuGyU   第8级
    n.对虾,明虾
    参考例句:
    • I'm not very keen on fish, but prawn. 我不是特别爱吃鱼,但爱吃对虾。
    • Yesterday we ate prawn dish for lunch. 昨天午餐我们吃了一盘对虾。
    20 tart [tɑ:t] 0qIwH   第10级
    adj.酸的;尖酸的,刻薄的;n.果馅饼;淫妇
    参考例句:
    • She was learning how to make a fruit tart in class. 她正在课上学习如何制作水果馅饼。
    • She replied in her usual tart and offhand way. 她开口回答了,用她平常那种尖酸刻薄的声调随口说道。
    21 spinach [ˈspɪnɪtʃ] Dhuzr5   第10级
    n.菠菜
    参考例句:
    • Eating spinach is supposed to make you strong. 据说吃菠菜能使人强壮。
    • You should eat such vegetables as carrot, celery and spinach. 你应该吃胡萝卜,芹菜和菠菜这类的蔬菜。
    22 reclaim [rɪˈkleɪm] NUWxp   第7级
    vt.要求归还,收回;开垦;vi.抗议,喊叫
    参考例句:
    • I have tried to reclaim my money without success. 我没能把钱取回来。
    • You must present this ticket when you reclaim your luggage. 当你要取回行李时,必须出示这张票子。
    23 cosy ['kəʊzɪ] dvnzc5   第7级
    adj.温暖而舒适的,安逸的
    参考例句:
    • We spent a cosy evening chatting by the fire. 我们在炉火旁聊天度过了一个舒适的晚上。
    • It was so warm and cosy in bed that Simon didn't want to get out. 床上温暖而又舒适,西蒙简直不想下床了。
    24 pickles ['pɪklz] fd03204cfdc557b0f0d134773ae6fff5   第8级
    n.腌菜( pickle的名词复数 );处于困境;遇到麻烦;菜酱
    参考例句:
    • Most people eat pickles at breakfast. 大多数人早餐吃腌菜。 来自《简明英汉词典》
    • I want their pickles and wines, and that.' 我要他们的泡菜、美酒和所有其他东西。” 来自英汉文学 - 金银岛
    25 heartier [ˈhɑ:ti:ə] caa109401f564b92565b598789e6b232   第7级
    亲切的( hearty的比较级 ); 热诚的; 健壮的; 精神饱满的
    参考例句:
    • Another and heartier smile illumined her rough face, and from that moment we were friends. 另一个更加真诚的微笑照亮了她那粗糙的脸;从那时起,我们就成了朋友。
    • My ideas received a far heartier and were much more appreciated in the corporate world. 劳林本人就是从学术界转到了企业界。
    26 sprouts [spraʊts] 7250d0f3accee8359a172a38c37bd325   第7级
    n.新芽,嫩枝( sprout的名词复数 )v.发芽( sprout的第三人称单数 );抽芽;出现;(使)涌现出
    参考例句:
    • The wheat sprouts grew perceptibly after the rain. 下了一场雨,麦苗立刻见长。 来自《现代汉英综合大词典》
    • The sprouts have pushed up the earth. 嫩芽把土顶起来了。 来自《现代汉英综合大词典》
    27 ginger [ˈdʒɪndʒə(r)] bzryX   第7级
    n.姜,精力,淡赤黄色;adj.淡赤黄色的;vt.使活泼,使有生气
    参考例句:
    • Ginger shall be hot in the mouth. 生姜吃到嘴里总是辣的。
    • There is no ginger in the young man. 这个年轻人没有精神。
    28 tempting ['temptiŋ] wgAzd4   第7级
    a.诱人的, 吸引人的
    参考例句:
    • It is tempting to idealize the past. 人都爱把过去的日子说得那么美好。
    • It was a tempting offer. 这是个诱人的提议。
    29 chestnut [ˈtʃesnʌt] XnJy8   第9级
    n.栗树,栗子
    参考例句:
    • We have a chestnut tree in the bottom of our garden. 我们的花园尽头有一棵栗树。
    • In summer we had tea outdoors, under the chestnut tree. 夏天我们在室外栗树下喝茶。
    30 exquisite [ɪkˈskwɪzɪt] zhez1   第7级
    adj.精美的;敏锐的;剧烈的,感觉强烈的
    参考例句:
    • I was admiring the exquisite workmanship in the mosaic. 我当时正在欣赏镶嵌画的精致做工。
    • I still remember the exquisite pleasure I experienced in Bali. 我依然记得在巴厘岛所经历的那种剧烈的快感。

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