Le Richer looks like dozens of other modernised Paris cafés, with 1960s-style chairs, exposed stone walls brightened with

mirrors, and bay windows looking on to an unremarkable Right Bank street. The coffee provides the first clue that something

is different: made with beans from the fashionable Left Bank roaster Coutume, it reveals an attention to detail

increasingly common in bistros but still rare in the neighbourhood café. The same care goes into the inventive food served

at lunch and dinner, which easily rivals that of much pricier restaurants in Paris.

Le Richer与巴黎诸多现代风格的咖啡屋大同小异——配备着上世纪60年代风格的椅子、裸露的石墙因挂有镜子而显得蓬荜生辉，透过飘窗可

眺望右岸地区(Right Bank)的寻常街道。它提供的咖啡就是展现自己与众不同的第一道风景线：其咖啡豆来自时尚左岸地区(Left Bank)的

Coutume咖啡烘焙店，Le Richer对每个细节都精益求精，这在巴黎的餐厅越来越司空见惯，但在周边咖啡屋仍属凤毛麟角。同样的事无巨细

态度还体现在独出心裁的午餐和晚餐，与巴黎价格不菲的高档餐厅相比，它们的水准毫不逊色。

Combining the warmth of a local hangout with the high standards of a modern bistro, Le Richer belongs to a handful of

hybrids² that are transforming Parisian café culture. Instead of contenting themselves with bitter mass-produced coffee and

a predictable menu of salads, croque-monsieurs and steak-frites, these gastro cafés are allowing ambitious chefs to express

themselves in a casual setting.

Le Richer把本地人流连忘返的温馨感与现代风格小餐馆的高水准合二为一，作为为数不多的混合经营咖啡馆，正在改变巴黎的咖啡文化。它

们并不为大量提供苦咖啡以及一般的沙拉、法式火腿干酪热三明治(croque-monsieurs)以及薯条牛排(steak-frites)而沾沾自喜，相反，这

些美食荟萃的咖啡屋允许有抱负的厨师在宽松的环境中肆意发挥。

Le Richer was created by Charles Compagnon of the nearby bistro L’Office. His no-reservations annex³ might look more

relaxed but Le Richer’s young chefs are turning out sophisticated dishes such as veal¹ cheek with creamy polenta, daikon

radish and grapes. Churros are a speciality for dessert, perhaps with walnut⁴ crème anglaise, prunes⁵ and figs⁶. The chatty

waiters joke with customers at the bar, while the bartender shakes up cocktails⁷ such as the cucumber slide or the kiwi-

kiwi. The organic and natural wines come from passionate⁸ small producers, as does the tea served in the afternoons.

Le Richer由夏尔•孔帕尼翁(Charles Compagnon)在毗邻L’Office小餐馆的地方创办。它不接受预订的附加条件也许看起来很随意，但年轻

厨师精心推出了用奶油玉米、白萝卜以及葡萄搭配的牛颊肉这等精美绝伦的大餐。巧罗丝(churros)则是本店的特色甜点，也许再配以英式核

桃奶油酱、梅干以及无花果。健谈的服务员不时与顾客在酒吧间开着玩笑，而酒吧间服务员则在调制cucumber slide与kiwi-kiwi鸡尾酒。这

些天然有机葡萄酒由小型酒庄精心酿制，它供应的下午茶同样如此。

A precursor⁹ to places like Le Richer was Café Constant, the popular bistro annex of Michelin-starred chef Christian¹⁰

Constant’s more formal restaurant Le Violon d’Ingres. Constant has since opened a second casual restaurant, Les Cocottes,

and helped launch the seafood¹¹ restaurant Les Fables¹² de la Fontaine – both also on rue¹³ St-Domininque in the smart 7th. But

Café Constant remains¹⁴ his favourite place to perch¹⁵ at the bar with an unlit cigar in his mouth and survey his mini-empire.

Though it closes between lunch and dinner, it’s open all morning for breakfast, making it a friendly meeting spot in this

neighbourhood of moneyed families and politicians.

Le Richer这类咖啡屋的“始作俑者”是远近皆知的Café Constant，它是米其林星级厨师克里斯蒂安•康斯坦特(Christian Constant)名下较

为正规的Le Violon d’Ingres餐厅的分设咖啡屋。康斯坦特随后又开设了一家更为休闲的Les Cocottes餐馆，并且帮助开设了Les Fables

de la Fontaine海鲜酒楼——这两家餐厅都位于时尚第七区的圣多米尼克街(rue St-Domininque)。但Café Constant仍是康斯坦特最喜欢的

咖啡屋，他喜欢坐在酒吧间，嘴里叼着雪茄，得意地扫视自己的“迷你帝国”。尽管它在午餐与晚餐之间关门歇业，但整个上午都都开门供

应早餐，这使它成为附近富裕家庭与政客们青睐的聚餐之地。

Instead of the complex food served at Le Richer, Café Constant’s kitchen focuses on revisiting such childhood classics as

eggs mimosa, veal cordon¹⁶ bleu and roast chicken – and even a French grand-mère would have trouble rivalling its versions.

If some more modern dishes make it on to the menu, such as grilled¹⁸ prawn¹⁹ tart²⁰ with baby spinach²¹ salad and frothy lemongrass

sauce, the desserts are the stuff of nostalgic fantasies: profiteroles, floating island, crème caramel, flaky apple tart.

Often abused in ordinary cafés, these puddings reclaim²² their rightful place here.

与提供复杂美食Le Richer不同的是，Café Constant专注于提供让食客重温鸡蛋含羞草、蓝带牛肉以及烤鸡这些儿时的美味佳肴——制作水

准甚至连法国老奶奶也望尘莫及。如果说用凉拌嫩菠菜及起泡柠檬香草酱搭配的烤虾挞是菜单中不断推陈出新的现代菜，那么空心甜饼、覆

有蛋白的蛋糕、焦糖蛋奶以及片状苹果馅饼就是回味无穷的经典怀旧甜点。在一般咖啡屋通常不受待见的这些甜点在这儿算是重新找到了自

己的归宿。

Another restaurant offshoot is Buvette, where the chef simmers free-range chicken in red Burgundy for classic coq au vin, a

dish rarely seen in bistros nowadays. Behind this cosy²³ café billing itself as a “gastrothèque” is Jody Williams, who

opened a nearly identical restaurant in Greenwich Village in 2011 before realising that Paris could also benefit from a

dose of old-fashioned French cooking.

另一家高档餐厅下设的咖啡屋是Buvette，那儿的大厨用勃艮第红酒慢炖散养鸡，烹制出经典的酒闷仔鸡(coq au vin)，这道菜如今在小餐馆

里已经难觅踪影。这家自诩美食荟萃(gastrothèque)的温馨咖啡店店主是乔迪•威廉姆斯(Jody Williams)，他2011年在格林尼治村

(Greenwich Village)开设了几乎一模一样的餐厅，而后意识到传统法式烹饪也可大飨巴黎的美食饕餮。

Croissants sit on the counter beside American cakes in the morning, while at lunch and in the late evening the croque-

monsieur on country bread with pickles²⁴ on the side puts most Paris cafés to shame. Heartier²⁵ dishes such as l’os à moelle

(bone marrow) and cassoulet take centre stage at dinner, though small plates – black pudding with apple on toast, or

salads (perhaps raw Brussels sprouts²⁶ tossed with Parmesan shavings) – are also available. As at Le Richer, the coffee,

wine and cocktails are top-notch.

每天早上，羊角面包与美式蛋糕一起摆在柜台上；而午餐以及晚餐时，放在乡村面包上的法式火腿干酪热三明治，旁边再配以腌菜，让巴黎

多数咖啡屋无地自容。骨髓以及豆焖肉等热菜尽管用小盘子盛放，却是晚宴的压轴菜——此外还供应吐司面包上放着苹果黑布丁及沙拉（或

许是洒着干酪屑的生球芽甘蓝）。在Le Richer咖啡屋，咖啡、葡萄酒以及鸡尾酒都是出类拔萃的水准。

Where the down-to-earth yet charming café Le Cherche Midi once stood, Café Trama has created a winning formula with its

old-meets-new decor of vintage tiles and Swedish furniture – and food that reflects the same spirit. Among the dishes

listed on the blackboard menu are lentils with poached eggs and mackerel, and an unlikely but successful steak tartare

flavoured with ginger²⁷ and lemongrass.

在原先实在却又可人的Le Cherche Midi咖啡屋原址上，Café Trama咖啡屋创建出成功模式——用仿古瓷砖与瑞典式家具打造出传统与现代合

二为一的装修风格，而它的饮食也体现了同样风格。菜单就写于黑板上，其中包括了荷包蛋与鲭鱼搭配小扁豆，以及可欲不可求却又美味无

比的生姜与柠檬香草做就的鞑靼牛扒。

Most tempting²⁸ of all are the cakes, including a chestnut²⁹ fondant made from a secret Trama family recipe and an exquisite³⁰

lemon tart. The coffee is from Veronese roaster Gianni Frasi, and the same care goes into the list of organic and natural

wines. Open from 11am to 10.30pm and with surprisingly reasonable prices, Café Trama has become one of the best places to

linger in this chic¹⁷ neighbourhood.

最让人垂涎欲滴的莫过于各种蛋糕，其中包括用特拉马家族(Trama famil)独门配方制作的板栗软糖与无比精致的柠檬塔。咖啡则来自意大利

维罗纳烘焙厂家Gianni Frasi，而各种天然有机葡萄酒同样精挑细选。Café Trama咖啡屋的营业时间是从上午11点到晚上11:30，而且价格颇

为公道（这很出乎意料），它已成为巴黎时尚第七区最为流连忘返的地方。

Rosa Jackson is a cooking teacher and food writer based in Nice and Paris

罗莎•杰克逊是长驻尼斯与巴黎的烹饪教师及美食作家