Are you too old for fairy tales? If you think so, Copenhagen is sure to change your mind. See the city first from the water.In the harbor sits Denmark’s best-known landmark¹: the Little Mermaid².Remember her?

你是不是年龄大了，如果你是这么认为的话，哥本哈根一定能够改变你的想法。要看这座城市，得先从水看起。都不想看童话了?

She left the world of the Sea People in search of a human soul in one of Hans Christian³ Andersen’s beloved fantasies.From the harbor you can get a feel for the attractive“city of green spires⁵.”

丹麦最有名的标志性建筑——小美人鱼就坐落在港口处。记得她吗?在安徒生的一个童话里，她离开了海底世界，想变成一个真正的人。安徒生的许多童话故事都很受欢迎哩。从这个港口你可以领略到这座迷人的“绿色塔尖之城”的魅力。

At twilight⁶ or in cloudy weather, the copper-covered spires of old castles and churches lend the city a dream-like atmosphere.

黎明时分或天气阴霾时，旧堡垒和教堂的镀铜塔尖会给这个城市营造梦一般的气氛。

You’ll think you’ve stepped into a watercolor painting.

Copenhagen is a city on a human scale.

你会以为自己步入了一幅水彩画。哥本哈根是一个很人性化的城市。

You don’t have to hurry to walk the city’s center in less than an hour.

你不需要在一小时内匆匆地将市中心走完。考察这个城市要花些时间。

Exploring it will take much longer.But that’s easy.Copenhagen was the first city to declare a street for pedestrians⁷ only.

但那也是件很轻松的事。哥本哈根是第一个划出步行街的城市。

The city has less traffic noise and pollution than any other European capital.

跟欧洲其他国家的首都相比，这个城市的交通噪音和污染少了许多。

Stroll away from the harbor along the riverbanks, you’ll see the modest Amalienborg Palace first.Completed in the mid-18th century, it still houses the royal family.

自港口沿着河岸漫步，最先映入眼帘的是风格朴实的阿玛利安堡皇宫。阿玛利安堡皇宫建造于18世纪中期，皇室家族至今仍居住于此。

The Danish Royal Guard is on duty.At noon, you ll watch the changing of the guard.The guards are not just for show, however.

皇家卫队也还在这里执行任务。中午可以观赏到卫兵换岗的仪式。这些卫兵绝不仅是装装样子而已。

Danes will always remember their heroism⁸ on April 9, 1940.When the Nazis⁹ invaded Denmark, the guards aimed their guns and fired.Soldiers fell on both sides.

丹麦人永远记得他们在1940年4月9日的英勇事迹。当时纳粹分子入侵丹麦，这里的卫兵与之开火交战。双方都有伤亡。

The guards would all have been killed if the king hadn’t ordered them to surrender.Churches and castles are almost all that remain of the original city.

如果不是国王下令让他们投降的话，这些卫兵可能全都为国捐躯了。大概只有教堂与古堡是古城遗留下来的。

Copenhagen became the capital of Denmark in 1445.During the late 16th century, trade grew, and so did the city.But fires in 1728 and 1795 destroyed the old wooden structures.

哥本哈根于1445年成为丹麦的首都。16世纪末，贸易的发展带动了城市的发展。但是，城中的旧式木制建筑在1728年和1795年的两场大火中毁于一旦。

Much of what we see today dates from the 19th and early 20th centuries. See one of the spires up close—really close—at the 17th-century Church of Our Savior.Brave souls may climb the 150 stairs winding¹⁰ outside the spire⁴ to its top.

今天我们所看到的大部分建筑都是在19世纪和20世纪初建造的。仔细看其中一个塔尖——真正靠近去看——这座建于17世纪的名为“我们的救世主”的教堂。勇敢的人可能会爬上那在尖塔外蜿蜒而上直通塔顶的150层阶梯。

If you’re afraid of heights, or if it’s a windy day, you can forget the climb.But then you’ll miss the magnificent view.  Once the earth is under your feet again (you’ll enjoy the feeling), cross the nearest bridge to Castle Island.

如果你恐高，或者当天的风很大，那就免了吧。不过，你会因此而错过那壮观的景色。

当你再次站在地面时(你会喜欢这种感觉的)，你可以通过最近的桥到城堡岛。前方有个1619年建造的欧洲最古老的证券交易中心，上面的塔尖奇特而又宏伟。

The curious yet majestic-looking spire ahead tops the oldest stock exchange in Europe, built in 1619.Its spire is formed from the entwined tails of three dragons.They represent Denmark, Sweden and Norway.

塔尖由三只龙尾缠绕而成，分别代表丹麦、瑞典和挪威。继续往前，走到基斯汀堡。哥本哈根源自此处。停下来游览这个中世纪的古堡。

Keep going, to the Christiansborg Palace.The town of Copenhagen began here.Stop and visit the medieval castle.Parliament and the Royal Reception Chambers¹¹ are open, too.

议院和皇家接待室也同样开放，然后继续往尼哈芬走，它是1673年由士兵挖掘的一条狭窄水道。你会明白为什么汉斯·克里斯蒂安·安徒生会把这个迷人的水道当成自己的家。

Then continue to Nyhavn, a narrow waterway dug by soldiers in 1673.You’ll understand why Hans Christian Andersen made this charming waterway his home.

通过公寓窗外的一面特制的镜子，他能够看到外面的世界而又不被人发现。

尼哈芬是个宁静的地方，它也是个逗留和观看行人的理想之地。

A specially-built mirror outside his apartment window allowed him to peek¹² unseen at the world outside.

虽然他们是欧洲的有钱人，但是穿着都很随意。

Nyhavn is peaceful, an ideal place for lingering and people-watching.You’ll usually see them dressed casually¹³, though they are among Europe’s rich people.

To see them having fun, and to have some fun yourself, cross Andersens Boulevard and enter Tivoli Gardens.You won’t be alone.

要看丹麦人嬉乐，要想自己找点乐趣，你可以穿过安徒生大道，进入提弗利花园，在这儿你是不会寂寞的。每年有500多万人来此旅游。他们来这里跳舞、就餐、欣赏户外和室內音乐会，看芭蕾舞表演和喜剧。

More than five million people a year come here.They come to dance, dine, take in outdoor and indoor concerts, see ballets and laugh at the comedy.One tip: Bring a lot of money.About 20 restaurants are among the city’s most expensive.Even without money, you can still enjoy the proud old trees, the colored night lights and the beautiful gardens.You might feel as if you are in a fairy tale.

给你一个建议：多带些钱。这里有20多家本城最昂贵的餐厅。即使没有钱，你仍可以欣赏那些骄傲的老树、五光十色的彩灯，以及美丽的花园。你会觉得自己已置身于童话故事中了。