He grabbed a paper bag from the backseat and plucked a half lemon out of it. I bit down on it, waited a few minutes. “You were right. I feel better,” I lied. As an Afghan, I knew it was better to be miserable¹ than rude. I forced a weak smile.“Old watani trick, no need for fancy medicine,” he said. His tone bordered on the surly. He flicked² the ash off his cigarette and gave himself a self-satisfied look in the rearview mirror. He was a Tajik, a lanky³, dark man with a weather-beaten face, narrow shoulders, and a long neck punctuated⁴ by a protruding⁵ Adam’s apple that only peeked⁶ from behind his beard when he turned his head. He was dressed much as I was, though I suppose it was really the other way around: a rough-woven wool blanket wrapped over a gray pirhan-tumban and a vest. On his head, he wore a brown pakol, tilted⁷ slightly to one side, like the Tajik hero Ahmad Shah Massoud--referred to by Tajiks as “the Lion of Panjsher.” 他从后座抓起一个纸袋，拿出半个柠檬。我咬一口，等上几分钟。“你说得对，我感觉好多了。”我说谎。身为阿富汗人，我深知宁可遭罪也不可失礼，我挤出孱弱的微笑。在白沙瓦，拉辛汗介绍我认识法里德。他告诉我，法里德二十九岁，不过他那机警的脸满是皱纹，看上去要老二十岁。他生于马扎里沙里夫，在那儿生活，直到十岁那年，他父亲举家搬到贾拉拉巴特。十四岁，他和他父亲加入了人民圣战者组织，抗击俄国佬。他们在潘杰希尔峡谷抗战了两年，直到直升机的炮火将他父亲炸成碎片。法里德娶了两个妻子，有五个小孩。 “他过去有七个小孩。 ”拉辛汗眼露悲哀地说，但在早几年，就在贾拉拉巴特城外，地雷爆炸夺走了他两个最小的女儿；那次爆炸还要去了他的脚趾以及他左手的三个手指。在那之后，他带着妻子和小孩搬到自沙瓦。

“Checkpoint,” Farid grumbled⁸. I slumped⁹ a little in my seat, arms folded across my chest, forgetting for a moment about the nausea¹⁰. But I needn’t have worried. Two Pakistani militia¹¹ approached our dilapidated Land Cruiser, took a cursory¹² glance inside, and waved us on.Farid was first on- the list of preparations Rahim Khan and I made, a list that included exchanging dollars for Kaldar and Afghani bills, my garment and pakol--ironically, I’d never worn either when I’d actually lived in Afghanistan--the Polaroid of Hassan and Sohrab, and, finally, perhaps the most important item: an artificial beard, black and chest length, Shari’a friendly--or at least the Taliban version of Shari’a. Rahim Khan knew of a fellow in Peshawar who specialized¹³ in weaving them, sometimes for Western journalists who covered the war.

“关卡。”法里德不满地说。我稍稍瘫在座位上，双臂抱胸，暂时忘却了眩晕的感觉。但我不用担心，两个阿富汗民兵朝我们这辆破旧的陆地巡洋舰走来，匆匆看了一眼车内，挥手让我们走。和阿富汗尼钞票，我的长袍和毡帽——讽刺的是，真正在阿富汗生活的那些年，这两件东西我统统没穿过——哈桑和索拉博的宝丽莱合影，最后，也许是最重要的是：一副黑色假胡子，长及胸膛。表示对伊斯兰教——至少是塔利班眼中的伊斯兰教——的友好。拉辛汗认得白沙瓦几个精于此道的家伙，有时他们替那些前来报道战争的西方记者服务。

Rahim Khan had wanted me to stay with him a few more days, to plan more thoroughly¹⁴. But I knew I had to leave as soon as possible. I was afraid I’d change my mind. I was afraid I’d deliberate, ruminate¹⁵, agonize¹⁶, rationalize, and talk myself into not going. I was afraid the appeal of my life in America would draw me back, that I would wade¹⁷ back into that great, big river and let myself forget, let the things I had learned these last few days sink to the bottom. I was afraid that I’d let the waters carry me away from what I had to do. From Hassan. From the past that had come calling. And from this one last chance at redemption. So I left before there was any possibility of that happening. As for Soraya, telling her I was going back to Afghanistan wasn’t an option. If I had, she would have booked herself on the next flight to Pakistan.

拉辛汗曾要求我多陪着他几天，计划得更详尽些。但我知道自己得尽快启程。我害怕自己会改变主意。我害怕自己会犹豫不决，瞻前顾后，寝食难安，寻找理由，说服自己不要前去。我害怕来自美国生活的诱惑会将我拉回去，而我再也不会趟进这条大河，让自己遗忘，让这几天得知的一切沉在水底。我害怕河水将我冲走，将我冲离那些当仁不让的责任，冲离哈桑，冲离那正在召唤我的往事，冲离最后一次赎罪的机会。所以我在这一切都还来不及发生之前就出发了。至于索拉雅，我没有告诉她我回阿富汗并非明智之举。如果我那么做，她会给自己订票，坐上下一班飞往阿富汗的客机。

We had crossed the border and the signs of poverty were every where. On either side of the road, I saw chains of little villages sprouting¹⁸ here and there, like discarded toys among the rocks, broken mud houses and huts consisting of little more than four wooden poles and a tattered¹⁹ cloth as a roof. I saw children dressed in rags chasing a soccer ball outside the huts. A few miles later, I spotted²⁰ a cluster of men sitting on their haunches, like a row of crows, on the carcass of an old burned-out Soviet²¹ tank, the wind fluttering the edges of the blankets thrown around them. Behind them, a woman in a brown burqa carried a large clay pot on her shoulder, down a rutted path toward a string of mud houses.

我们已经越过国境，触目皆是贫穷的迹象。在路的两旁，我看见村落一座连一座，如同被丢弃的玩具般，散落在岩石间；而那些残破的泥屋和茅舍，无非是四根木柱，加上屋顶的破布。我看见衣不蔽体的孩子在屋外追逐一个足球。再过几里路，我看到有群男人弓身蹲坐，如同一群乌鸦，坐着的是被焚毁的破旧俄军坦克，寒风吹起他们身边毛毯的边缘，猎猎作响。他们身后，有个穿着棕色长袍的女子，肩膀上扛着大陶罐，沿着车辙宛然的小径，走向一排泥屋。

“Strange,” I said.

“真奇怪。”我说。

“What?”

“什么？”