Jadeh Maywand. Just north of us was the bone-dry Kabul River. On the hills to the south stood the broken old city wall. Just east of it was the Bala Hissar Fort--the ancient citadel¹ that the warlord Dostum had occupied in 1992--on the Shirdarwaza mountain range, the same mountains from which Mujahedin forces had showered Kabul with rockets between 1992 and 1996, inflicting² much of the damage I was witnessing now. The Shirdarwaza range stretched all the way west. It was from those mountains that I remember the firing of the Topeh chasht, the “noon cannon³.” It went off every day to announce noontime, and also to signal the end of daylight fasting during the month of Ramadan. You’d hear the roar of that cannon all through the city in those days.

一度占领这座古代城堡——坐落在雪达瓦扎山脉上。 1992年到 1996年间，人民圣战者组织的火箭如雨点般从那座山脉射出来，落进喀布尔城里，造成如今摆在我眼前的浩劫。雪达瓦扎山脉朝西逶迤而去。我记得，“午炮”也是从这些山峦中发出来的，它每天响起，宣告中午来临；在斋月期间，它也是一声信号，意味着白天的禁食可以结束了。那些天，整座城市都能听见午炮的轰鸣。

“I used to come here to Jadeh Maywand when I was a kid,” I mumbled⁴. “There used to be shops here and hotels. Neon lights and restaurants. I used to buy kites from an old man named Saifo. He ran a little kite shop by the old police headquarters.”

“我小时候常常路过这儿，前往雅德梅湾。”我喃喃说，“过去这儿商店宾馆林立，遍地食肆和霓虹灯。我经常向一个叫做塞弗的老人买风筝。他在旧警察局旁边开了间小小的风筝铺。”

“The police headquarters is still there,” Farid said. “No shortage of police in this city But you won’t find kites or kite shops on Jadeh Maywand or anywhere else in Kabul. Those days are over.”

“警察局还在那儿。”法里德说，“这座城市不缺警察。但你在雅德梅湾，或者喀布尔任何地方，再也找不到风筝或者风筝铺了。那样的日子已经结束。”

Jadeh Maywand had turned into a giant sand castle. The buildings that hadn’t entirely⁵ collapsed⁶ barely stood, with caved in roofs and walls pierced with rockets shells. Entire blocks had been obliterated⁷ to rubble⁸. I saw a bullet-pocked sign half buried at an angle in a heap of debris⁹. It read DRINK COCA CO--. I saw children playing in the ruins of a windowless building amid jagged stumps¹⁰ of brick and stone. Bicycle riders and mule-drawn carts swerved¹¹ around kids, stray dogs, and piles of debris. A haze¹² of dust hovered¹³ over the city and, across the river, a single plume¹⁴ of smoke rose to the sky.

雅德梅湾业已变成一座巨大的废墟。那些尚未被彻底摧毁的屋宇赤条条竖在那儿，屋顶破了大洞，墙壁嵌满火箭的弹片。整个街区已经化为瓦砾。我看见一个带着弹孔的招牌斜斜埋在一堆残骸中，上面写着“请喝可口可……”。我看见在那些犬牙交错的砖石废墟中，有座没有窗户的破房子，儿童在里面玩耍。自行车和骡车在孩子、流浪狗和一堆堆废物中穿梭。 城市上方是灰蒙蒙的尘雾，河那边，一道青烟袅袅升上天空。

“Where are the trees?” I said. “那些树呢？”我说。

“People cut them down for firewood in the winter,” Farid said. “The Shorawi cut a lot of them down too.”

“冬天的时候被人们砍成柴火了。”法里德说，“俄国佬也砍了不少。”

“Why?” “为什么？”