Australian wild salmon¹ has an image problem.

澳大利亚野生三文鱼遭遇了“形象问题”。

Every year, breeding-age salmon make their way from as far as Bass² Strait to spawn³ in the south-western corner of the continent.

每年，到达繁殖期的三文鱼都会从遥远的巴斯海峡来到澳大利亚西南角产卵。

According to WA Fisheries, the salmon stock is in good health. But as recreational fishers flock to south coast and South West beaches to catch them, the commercial industry is in decline.

西澳渔业部门表示这里的三文鱼质量上乘。然而在大批业余渔民因此涌向南部海岸及西南部海滩捕捞三文鱼之际，三文鱼产业却在逐渐没落。

Since the last cannery at Albany closed down in the 1980s, the catch has dwindled⁴ from an average of up to 3,000 tonnes a season to between 75 and 300 tonnes in the past five years.

自从20世纪80年代，位于澳大利亚西南部港市奥尔巴尼的一家罐头厂停产之后，过去五年中，三文鱼捕捉量从平均每季度最多可达3000吨，下滑到75吨到300吨之间。

The dominant⁵ market for the fish is as bait for the western rock lobster⁶ industry with a beach price as low as 50 cents a kilogram.

如今市场上三文鱼主要作为西部岩龙虾的饵料出售，售价低至每公斤50美分。

学吃三文鱼要从娃娃抓起

WA's Fishing Industry Council and Curtin University are now working together to try to promote salmon as a table fish.

西澳渔业理事会联合科廷大学正在为将野生三文鱼推向餐桌而努力。

They have been running a pilot program for upper primary school students focusing on 12 low-value, under-utilised fish species.

他们在小学高年级学生中开展了一个试点项目，项目重点有关12种低价值而未能有效利用的鱼类。

Janet Howieson, from Curtin's Centre of Excellence⁷ for Science Seafood⁸ and Health, said education was crucial.

来自科廷大学科学、海鲜与健康卓越中心的珍妮•豪伊森表示，此类教育至关重要。

"I think education is really important, Australian salmon is one of the fish we put into our schools education program," Dr Howieson said.

豪伊森博士说道：“我认为教育十分重要，我们将一些鱼类相关知识囊括进我们的教育项目，澳大利亚三文鱼就是其中之一。

"I think educating the chefs, educating the children, educating the consumers, educating the retailers⁹ is very important."

“我认为向厨师、孩子、消费者、零售商都普及这些知识是很重要的。”

厨师：野生三文鱼的重口味是挑战

One of the chefs helping¹⁰ the program is Peter Manifis, who is also a provider supplying fresh salmon and other seafood to restaurants.

彼得•曼尼菲斯是项目中的一位厨师，同时也是一名供货商，为多家饭店提供新鲜的三文鱼和其他海产品。

He thinks market resistance to wild caught salmon may be because it is confused with farmed Atlantic salmon.

他认为野生三文鱼之所以没有市场，是因为受到了养殖大西洋鲑鱼的影响。

Its red, oil-rich flesh and strong flavour is also a challenge in a market used to mild, white-fleshed species such as snapper and red emperor.

另外，野生三文鱼红油油、重口味的肉质也是一个挑战，人们还是习惯于味道温和、白色肉质的品种，比如鲷鱼和龙占鱼。

"It's got flavour, some people could say definitely it's an oily fish. There's a lot of omega 3s in it, there's a lot of positives, but it's quite strong," Mr Manifis said.

曼尼菲斯说：“野生三文鱼很重口，有些人说这种三文鱼是油质鱼类。这种鱼富含omega-3，对人体大为有益，但味道确实很刺激。”

He said at $15 for a whole fish up to 8kg, salmon was outstanding value and chefs just needed to learn how to best use its strong flavour.

曼尼菲斯说，15美元就能买到一整条三文鱼，重达8千克，价值突出，而厨师只要学会如何处理那股浓烈的味道就行了。

"I want chefs to know how to cook fish with flavour and not be scared of them and not be scared to put them on their menus," Mr Manifis said.

曼尼菲斯说：“我希望厨师们能学会如何烹饪带有浓烈气味的鱼类，不要害怕处理这类鱼，不要不敢把这种鱼列上菜单。”

"We all talk about innovation, this is innovation as far as I'm concerned. If chefs are holding back and not putting this on their menu because they're worried about what the punters will say, it's all training and that's what we've got to do, we need to teach the people how to cook it, how to eat it."

“我们都在说创新，依我来看，烹饪这种鱼就是创新。如果厨师们因为害怕食客的指指点点而退缩，不敢将这道菜列上菜单，我们就通过这个项目来培训这项技能，我们要教人们如何烹饪野生三文鱼，如何享用野生三文鱼。”

钓鱼机构：野生三文鱼垂钓作为旅游资源尚待开发

Recfishwest, which represents WA's 800,000 anglers, said the bait market was a poor use of a valuable resource.

代表西澳80万垂钓者的钓鱼机构西部业余垂钓表示，将野生三文鱼作为龙虾饵料是对这种珍贵资源的浪费。

"We absolutely support this biological resource for its highest and best use, so human consumption is an absolutely critical element," Recfishwest's chief executive Andrew Rowland said.

西部业余垂钓首席执行官安德鲁•罗兰说：“我们完全支持这种生物资源得到有效充分的利用，因此人类的消费是绝对重要的一环。”

"Simply taking these magnificent animals out of the environment, running them through a bandsaw and stuffing them into a bait box to put into a rock lobster pot is simply not acceptable use of this important resource."

“野生三文鱼作为珍贵的生物资源，仅仅被人类捕捉上岸，锯成碎块，塞进饵料盒喂给岩龙虾，这种方式的资源利用不可接受。”

He said the tourism potential for the recreational salmon catch was largely untapped.

罗兰教授表示野生三文鱼垂钓作为旅游资源还待开发，很具潜力。

"This is one of the world's best sport fisheries and the world doesn't even know about it," he said.

罗兰教授说：“这里是全世界最棒的竞技垂钓地，至今却鲜为人知。”

"So these are the things we really need to get on the table and have a discussion around where that value lies."

“所以我们真的需要公开谈谈这些事情了，我们应该好好谈谈这些资源的价值在哪里。”