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中国人心系中式早餐 豆浆油条
添加时间:2015-01-30 18:28:24 浏览次数: 作者:未知
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  • The culinary colonisation of the globe may now have us all eating the same old margherita pizzas and arrabiata pastas. But there is one last bastion of gastronomic1 independence: breakfast. The things we can bear to put in our stomachs right after rising are often the most culturally authentic2 things about us. And nowhere is that truer than in China.

    烹饪方式在全球的殖民式推广,或许让我们现在全都吃着一样的传统玛格丽特比萨和香辣番茄意大利面。但还有最后一座堡垒在坚守着烹饪方式独立:早餐。我们能忍受一起床就吃下肚的东西,从文化角度而言往往是最真实地反映我们是谁的东西。而中国比其他任何地方都更符合这句论断。

    Nobody loves things western more than the Chinese, but when the sun comes up on any Chinese city the east dominates the breakfast trade. Like their ancestors before them, even the most westernised Shanghainese queue up before bamboo towers of steamed buns, spitting woks3 of crispy bottomed dumplings and steaming vats4 of rice gruel5, to eat food that proudly declares its Chineseness.

    没有哪个民族比中国人更喜爱西方的东西,但在中国任何一座城市,当太阳升起的时候,早点生意绝对是“东风压倒西风”。哪怕是最西化的上海人,也会像他们的祖辈一样,在码得高高的一笼笼包子,一锅锅滋滋作响的锅贴,和一桶桶热气腾腾的米粥前排队等候,以享用这些自豪地宣告自己中国身份的食物作早餐。

    They’ve got nothing against a good cornflake here or there, just for variety, or even an Egg McMuffin on the run, but a soup-filled bun made with dollops of pork fat — the much-loved Shanghai shengjian mantou — goes straight to the heart of mainlanders like no cornflake ever could. And of course, all that fat, salt and carbohydrate6 goes straight to the heart muscle too. But reason not the nutrients7: at its best, breakfast is not just food, it is more like love.

    中国人对偶尔吃一顿可口的玉米片早餐也不排斥,但只是为了换换口味,赶时间的时候他们甚至会匆匆忙忙抓一个吉士蛋麦满分当早餐,可是只有饱含汤汁的生煎馒头(上海人的最爱)才能直抵中国人的心房,那是任何玉米片永远到不了的地方。当然啦,那里面饱含的脂肪、盐和碳水化合物也会直抵心肌。但别拿健康说事了,最好的早餐不仅是食物,它更像是一种“爱”。

    One young millennial9 queueing at the neighbourhood “baozi” or steamed bun stall in Shanghai’s former French concession10, said he was there for a bit of a bun “chaser” to the bowl of Cheerios he had consumed at home. East meets west in this young man, who says he’s just as happy to draw from either menu for his first meal of the day. But when it comes to taste? China wins hands down.

    一个“千禧”世代的年轻人,正在上海前法租界居民区的包子铺排队买包子。这位年轻人说自己在家已经吃了一碗脆谷乐(Cheerios),来这儿想再吃点包子,补充点“硬货”。东西两种文化在这个年轻人身上交汇,他说作为一天之中的头一餐,中式和西式早餐都能让他吃得很开心。但论及味道,中餐毫不费力地赢了。

    Wu Genfa, a baozi shopper old enough to be his grandfather, is having none of this fusion11 approach. “I don’t like foreign breakfast,” he says unapologetically. “We’ve been eating Chinese food for decades and if we suddenly change to foreign food, our stomach can’t get used to it,” he says.

    队伍里一位年纪足以当那位年轻人祖父的食客,则完全无法接受中西混搭的吃法。他的名字叫吴根发。“我不喜欢外国的早餐。”他理直气壮地说,“我们已经吃了几十年中国食物,如果突然改吃外国食物,我们的胃习惯不了。”

    China’s stubborn adherence12 to its bun-and-rice-gruel antecedents means that even western fast food restaurants such as KFC have to learn to wrap a steamed bun to survive in the mainland breakfast market. In fact, KFC’s rice porridge with pork and hundred-year-old egg is so popular at breakfast time — paired with a deep fried pastry13 or “youtiao” for a set meal as low as $1 — that it’s often sold out by the time I get there.

    中国对包子、米粥等传统食物的顽固坚守,意味着即使是肯德基(KFC)这类西方快餐店都得学着做包子,才能在中国的早餐市场上生存。事实上,肯德基早餐时间供应的皮蛋瘦肉粥(原文称皮蛋为“百年老蛋”(hundred-year-old egg)——译者注)配油条套餐(该套餐售价8元人民币,约合1美元)极受欢迎,我去的时候经常已经卖光了。

    In a city such as Shanghai, which celebrates its futuristic skyscrapers14 and hides historic neighbourhoods out of embarrassment15, eating street food for breakfast may be the closest that most westerners get to traditional Chinese culture. And the best way to get up to speed on where to go — and how to tell a bun from a dumpling — is to take the “Street Eats Breakfast” tour, run by the offbeat16 guides UnTour.

    在上海这样一座为那些现代化摩天大楼而欢庆,而尴尬地把历史悠久的老街区藏起来的城市里,去街头小吃摊点吃早餐可能是大多数西方人与传统中国文化最近距离的接触。而想了解当下吃早餐的好去处,以及分清包子和锅贴,最佳方案就是参加另类旅游社UnTour组织的“街头小吃早餐”之旅。

    When the FT recently tagged along, Pennsylvanian Mitch Conquer, our guide, taught us everything from how to slurp17 the soup out of scalding dumplings, to the creation myth of the baozi (which holds that the buns were filled with meat and shaped like human heads to offer as sacrifices when plague hit a Chinese army nearly two millennia8 ago). Rival that, you cornflake connoisseurs18.

    英国《金融时报》近日也参加了一次。我们的导游米奇•康克尔(Mitch Conquer)来自美国宾夕法尼亚州,他教给了我们很多知识,从如何从滚烫的锅贴里吸出汤汁,到包子诞生的故事(传说将近两千年前,一只中国军队遭遇瘟疫,人们用面皮包上肉馅,捏成人头的形状,当做祭品供奉,这就是包子)。玉米片行家们,你们拿什么跟这个比?

    But for all that Shanghai loves its buns, street eats of all varieties are under threat in China, says Anna Greenspan, author of Shanghai Future: Modernity Remade. Soon after I moved to China in 2008, for example, the city tore down one of the most famous and best-loved food streets, Wujiang Road, leaving Starbucks, McDonald’s and Subway in its place. “In the developed world, there is a renaissance19 of street food culture, with the food trucks,” she says. Not so in China, where street food markets are seen as unhygienic, noisy and just plain un-futuristic. In December, yet another famous Shanghai food street was demolished20.

    尽管上海人如此喜爱他们的包子,但《上海未来:重建现代性》(Shanghai Future: Modernity Remade)一书的作者安娜•格林斯潘(Anna Greenspan)说,在中国,各种街头小吃都正面临威胁。举个例子,2008年我刚到中国不久,上海拆掉了最著名、最受欢迎的美食街之一,吴江路小吃街,现在那里只有星巴克(Starbucks)、麦当劳(McDonald's)和赛百味(Subway)了。安娜•格林斯潘说:“在发达国家,一辆辆流动食品车所代表的街头食品文化正在复兴。”在中国则不是这样,街头小吃市场在这里被认为是不卫生的、嘈杂的,而且毫不现代化。去年12月,又一条上海著名的美食街被拆除。

    To add insult to injury Shanghai’s largest state-owned food group, Bright Food, recently bought the British breakfast icon21 Weetabix, and is working hard to introduce western shredded22 wheat and milk culture to China. Good luck with that. Weetabix seems to be tackling the snack market first, recently introducing green tea and dark chocolate Alpen cereal bars, just for the China market. But outside the Jiadeli supermarket, opposite the bun stall where UnTour took us, Yue Yumei, 53, says she’s never even heard of Weetabix. Vive la dumpling, I say: let them eat street food.

    无异于往传统街头小吃伤口上撒盐的是,上海最大的国营食品集团光明食品(Bright Food)最近收购了英国代表性早餐食品品牌维他麦(Weetabix),而且该集团正努力将西方的牛奶麦片文化引入中国。祝他们好运吧。维他麦似乎想先打入零食市场,近来推出了专门面向中国市场的绿茶和黑巧克力欧倍(Alpen)谷物棒。但在一家“家得利”(Jiadeli)超市外面,就在UnTour带我们去的一家包子铺对面,53岁的岳玉梅说她从没听说过维他麦。锅贴万岁,我要说,他们想吃街头食品就让他们吃吧。

     11级    双语 


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    1 gastronomic [ˌgæstrəˈnɒmɪk] f7c510a163e3bbb44af862c8a6f9bdb8   第12级
    adj.美食(烹饪)法的,烹任学的
    参考例句:
    • The gastronomic restaurant is a feature of the hotel. 美食餐厅是这家饭店的一个特色。 来自互联网
    • The restaurant offers a special gastronomic menu. 这家餐馆备有一份特别的美食菜单。 来自互联网
    2 authentic [ɔ:ˈθentɪk] ZuZzs   第7级
    adj.真的,真正的;可靠的,可信的,有根据的
    参考例句:
    • This is an authentic news report. We can depend on it. 这是篇可靠的新闻报道,我们相信它。
    • Autumn is also the authentic season of renewal. 秋天才是真正的除旧布新的季节。
    3 woks [wɔks] e6743bdd9a846b16d50c0242e0807636   第11级
    n.锅,炒菜锅( wok的名词复数 )
    参考例句:
    • He woks on the even surface. 他在平滑的表面上工作。 来自互联网
    • Inverter loop PID controller woks not very well if PID controller parameters are not designed well. 分析表明如果设计方法欠佳,PID控制器不能发挥优良调节能力,使逆变器单环控制系统性能不很理想。 来自互联网
    4 vats ['væts] 3cf7466f161beb5cb241053041e2077e   第9级
    varieties 变化,多样性,种类
    参考例句:
    • Fixed rare issue with getting stuck in VATS mode. 修正了极少出现的VATS模式卡住的问题。
    • Objective To summarize the experience of VATS clinic application. 目的总结电视胸腔镜手术(vats)胸外科疾病治疗中的临床应用经验。
    5 gruel [ˈgru:əl] GeuzG   第11级
    n.稀饭,粥;vt.使极度劳累,累垮
    参考例句:
    • We had gruel for the breakfast. 我们早餐吃的是粥。
    • He sat down before the fireplace to eat his gruel. 他坐到壁炉前吃稀饭。
    6 carbohydrate [ˌkɑ:bəʊˈhaɪdreɪt] FTPy0   第7级
    n.碳水化合物;糖类;(plural)淀粉质或糖类
    参考例句:
    • You should not have too much carbohydrate in your diet. 你日常饮食中不该有过多碳水化合物。
    • Cashew nuts are rich in carbohydrate. 腰果含丰富碳水化合物。
    7 nutrients ['nju:trɪənts] 6a1e1ed248a3ac49744c39cc962fb607   第8级
    n.(食品或化学品)营养物,营养品( nutrient的名词复数 )
    参考例句:
    • a lack of essential nutrients 基本营养的缺乏
    • Nutrients are absorbed into the bloodstream. 营养素被吸收进血液。 来自《简明英汉词典》
    8 millennia [mi'leniə] 3DHxf   第9级
    n.一千年,千禧年
    参考例句:
    • For two millennia, exogamy was a major transgression for Jews. 两千年来,异族通婚一直是犹太人的一大禁忌。
    • In the course of millennia, the dinosaurs died out. 在几千年的时间里,恐龙逐渐死绝了。
    9 millennial [mɪ'lenɪəl] ef953914f342cb14bd9e488fe460c41e   第9级
    一千年的,千福年的
    参考例句:
    • Both Russia and America looked to the future to fulfill their millennial expectations. 俄国和美国都把实现他们黄金时代的希望寄托于未来。
    • The millennial generation is celebrating the global commons every day, apparently unmindful of Hardin's warning. 千禧一代显然对哈丁的警告不以为然,每天都在颂扬全球“公地”。
    10 concession [kənˈseʃn] LXryY   第7级
    n.让步,妥协;特许(权)
    参考例句:
    • We can not make heavy concession to the matter. 我们在这个问题上不能过于让步。
    • That is a great concession. 这是很大的让步。
    11 fusion [ˈfju:ʒn] HfDz5   第9级
    n.溶化;熔解;熔化状态,熔和;熔接
    参考例句:
    • Brass is formed by the fusion of copper and zinc. 黄铜是通过铜和锌的熔合而成的。
    • This alloy is formed by the fusion of two types of metal. 这种合金是用两种金属熔合而成的。
    12 adherence [ədˈhɪərəns] KyjzT   第10级
    n.信奉,依附,坚持,固着
    参考例句:
    • He was well known for his adherence to the rules.他因遵循这些规定而出名。
    • The teacher demanded adherence to the rules.老师要求学生们遵守纪律。
    13 pastry [ˈpeɪstri] Q3ozx   第8级
    n.油酥面团,酥皮糕点
    参考例句:
    • The cook pricked a few holes in the pastry. 厨师在馅饼上戳了几个洞。
    • The pastry crust was always underdone. 馅饼的壳皮常常烤得不透。
    14 skyscrapers ['skaɪˌskreɪpəz] f4158331c4e067c9706b451516137890   第7级
    n.摩天大楼
    参考例句:
    • A lot of skyscrapers in Manhattan are rising up to the skies. 曼哈顿有许多摩天大楼耸入云霄。
    • On all sides, skyscrapers rose like jagged teeth. 四周耸起的摩天大楼参差不齐。
    15 embarrassment [ɪmˈbærəsmənt] fj9z8   第9级
    n.尴尬;使人为难的人(事物);障碍;窘迫
    参考例句:
    • She could have died away with embarrassment. 她窘迫得要死。
    • Coughing at a concert can be a real embarrassment. 在音乐会上咳嗽真会使人难堪。
    16 offbeat [ˌɒfˈbi:t] oIZxe   第12级
    adj.不平常的,离奇的
    参考例句:
    • She adores old, offbeat antiques. 她非常喜欢那些稀奇古怪的老古董。
    • His style is offbeat but highly creative. 他的风格很不寻常但非常有创造力。
    17 slurp [slɜ:p] XT6zB   第11级
    n.啜食;vt.饮食出声
    参考例句:
    • You may not slurp your soup. 喝汤不可发出声音。
    • Do you always slurp when drinking a milkshake? 你总是这样啧啧喝牛奶吗?
    18 connoisseurs [ˌkɔnəˈsɜ:z] 080d8735dcdb8dcf62724eb3f35ad3bc   第9级
    n.鉴赏家,鉴定家,行家( connoisseur的名词复数 )
    参考例句:
    • Let us go, before we offend the connoisseurs. 咱们走吧,免得我们惹恼了收藏家。 来自辞典例句
    • The connoisseurs often associate it with a blackcurrant flavor. 葡萄酒鉴赏家们通常会将它跟黑醋栗口味联系起来。 来自互联网
    19 renaissance [rɪˈneɪsns] PBdzl   第7级
    n.复活,复兴,文艺复兴
    参考例句:
    • The Renaissance was an epoch of unparalleled cultural achievement. 文艺复兴是一个文化上取得空前成就的时代。
    • The theme of the conference is renaissance Europe. 大会的主题是文艺复兴时期的欧洲。
    20 demolished [diˈmɔliʃt] 3baad413d6d10093a39e09955dfbdfcb   第9级
    v.摧毁( demolish的过去式和过去分词 );推翻;拆毁(尤指大建筑物);吃光
    参考例句:
    • The factory is due to be demolished next year. 这个工厂定于明年拆除。
    • They have been fighting a rearguard action for two years to stop their house being demolished. 两年来,为了不让拆除他们的房子,他们一直在进行最后的努力。
    21 icon [ˈaɪkɒn] JbxxB   第8级
    n.偶像,崇拜的对象,画像
    参考例句:
    • They found an icon in the monastery. 他们在修道院中发现了一个圣像。
    • Click on this icon to align or justify text. 点击这个图标使文本排齐。
    22 shredded [ʃredid] d51bccc81979c227d80aa796078813ac   第9级
    shred的过去式和过去分词
    参考例句:
    • Serve the fish on a bed of shredded lettuce. 先铺一层碎生菜叶,再把鱼放上,就可以上桌了。
    • I think Mapo beancurd and shredded meat in chilli sauce are quite special. 我觉得麻婆豆腐和鱼香肉丝味道不错。 来自《简明英汉词典》

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